Ok I converted an OBD1 PCM to work with OBD2 by soldering in a 3900 ohm resister between pin 22 and the ground on the blue connector. I loaded my new bin into the PCM started it up and it ran great much better than my old tune. I take it out for a little cruise to settle the tune in and the hook up my laptop to data log. The car runs great but when I look at my log im seeing spark knock retard EVERYWERE! theres a max retard value of 7deg and it jumps right to it all the time. so my question is how can I de-tune the stock knock module or is it safer to just buy the LT4 KM? also in the datalog I can see it trying to advance the timing to between 40 and 45 degrees. whats the max you should advance?

Data Master question, in the histogram, when I select a cel it shows me the BLM count and every cell is dead locked on 128/128 this doesnt seem right shouldnt the histogram show some fluctuation? anyway here the datalog if you want to look at it. Im using datamaster. TIA

http://putstuff.putfile.com/68333/3279330

EDIT: Im running Morels/and promags thats why I think my spark knock is false. would you agree?

 

Look at your data log.... is there glaring at you.

Check your soldering on the D22 pin. Your data log shows DTC 43 for a faulty knock sensor circuit. When DTC 43 is active the PCM calculates almost continuous (= "EVERYWHERE") knock retard based on other engine operating parameters.

I suspect the tuner set the max spark retard at 7*. With stock programming, you can see up to 15* when the knock sensor circuit is not working.

The stock advance tables will provide mid 40's advance under cruise conditions. You shouldn't see anything like that at WOT.

Ask your tuner if he locked the BLM's. Its only running in Cells 16, 17 and 18. 16 is the idle cell, and 17 and 18 are synthetic BLM's calculated from the other operating cells. Appears its been locked into those cells and learning disabled.

 

do'oh I thought that was my TSS error. I double checked the connection before I closed everything back up. I was a little confused on wether or not I was supose to include pin 21 in the connection. but from what ive read theres different resistors used for a B-body swap and an F-body swap. do you know if it is without a doubt supose to be 3900 ohms on pin 22?

 

Why don't you just skip the resistors, and put a 93-95 4.5Kohm knock sensor in the block?

 

well that would be to easy I was trying to keep it so I could switch back to my OBD2 pcm without any real work.

 

Ok so I resoldered in the 3.9k ohm resistor to points 22 and 21 on the blue connected, checked the resistor resistance and still get the DTC error. so I guess ill just switch to the 93-95 knock sensor. but before I do that is there anyone out there that has a converted OBD1 PCM that could pop it open and take a pic?? I really dont understand why this isnt working for me?? thanks!!