I'm getting ready to get my top end back in a week or two and decided (after reading several posts) to take the bottom end apart and get it cleaned. I'm gonna take the bottom end to a shop that specializes in this to do all the work. I dont really feel comfortable doing it myself. They will disassemble the bottom end, mic check everything, polish the journals on the crank at which point they will give me the information I need to purchase the new bearings. after i recieve the bearings, I will give them to the shop to let them do the reassembly. during the cleaning process of the block they will dip the block and then replace all freeze plugs and cam bearings. I will be responsible for buying all new ARP bolts (so I know that they are using the bolts I want them to use), buying new rings and buying the bearings.
-for disassembling the block, cleaning and replacing freeze plugs and cam bearings, the cost is $120.
-for reassembling everything, polishing the crank and checking clearences, the cost is $325.
total cost (minus bearings, bolts and rings): $445

does this price sound about right? or should I shop around more? thanks guys.
dave

 

Sounds about right to me. $250 for shortblock assembly is about the going rate around here. I personally though would go with a full rebuild with upcoming heads and big cam. You'll need to buy pistons obviously with the overbore, but you can keep the stock crank and rods, just balance and grind the crank, and shotpeen the rods for a little more strength. I've also been told that if you stud a 2 bolt block, it's stronger than a 4bolt. It'll cost more over what you want to do, but it'll give an extra measure of strength and piece of mind when turning 7000 rpms.

Jason

 

Says who?

$445 sounds about right there. Of course it will vary location to location.

 

i would save the 150 and tear it down myself...just make sure you keep the same caps with the same pistons.....bolts are gonna cost you a little bit too...i cant remeber what i paid but for them but it was up there...rod, mains, studs, and hex bolts for my splayed caps...you should be able to pick up some freeze plugs and bearings pretty cheap on ebay

 

Pretty darn cheap compared to up here. Of course, any job ius too expensive if it's done poorly, and I have no idea of they will do a decent job. But the price is very reasonable. One way to judge a shop doing this kind of work is to go look around. The area where they assemble motors shold be CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. As well as well lit, tools orderly and in good condition, etc.

Rich

 

One of the machinists at a shop here that builds alot of hi po engines and has a pretty good name. All the guys who work there have been hot rodding for years, so I trusted him as he said it was from experience. I know the 400 small blocks are this way as the 4 bolt versions had too much metal taken out of the webbing to make room for the extra 2 bolts. Why they made those, I don't know, but I guess it makes sense to me why the 2 bolts are stronger. But for a 350, I was surprised to hear that.

Jason

 

You can hardly do it yourself for that price, I just did one.

Rings 90$
Rods and Mains 75$
Cam bearings 16$ (have to have too to install them, rental was 10$)
Gaskets 178$
Oven cleaner (3 cans) 15$
Emery cloth, polished crank 2.50$
assembly lube 5$
new oil pump 15$
2 cans high temp black paint 12$
Gallon of Kerosene 3.50$
various bolts and odds and ends 25$
plastigage 1.50$

equalling 448.50 $

This is of course with me having a proper cylinder hone, dial indicator and stand,up to date torque wrench,proper sockets (deep one for mains for windage tray),and mics to check the clearances.

 

Thanks to all who replied. I stopped by the shop today and found a very down to earth guy who answered all questions that I had about the block. He had some immaculate engine blocks and heads sitting within his large shop. The engines and heads appeared to be very clean. So that was a little reassurance as far as reliability was concerned. He discussed with me my plans for the block (am i going with n2o, daily driver, race only, etc.) and was trying to configure how we should set it up from there. Informed me of using studs instead of bolts for a stronger setup. He also question me about my cam and made sure that that information was being shared with the shop (Lloyd) doing my heads. He seemed to be very thorough as far as his questioning went and took notes on everything I informed him that I wanted done. So far it seems like an honest shop, so I will most likely be taking my block to them. Now I just need to find some ARP stud kits to use on the bottom end. Once he gets the motor tore apart, he will give me the information on my crank so that I can buy the new bearings. Thanks again for the help.
dave