OK- I have been having coolant issues with my LT1- ( whats new) I have flushed the coolant system, replaced hoses, Cleaned the bypass, bought a new CSR LT1 electric waterpump, new pump housing, new sensors, and a new 160 thermo.
Car still runs hot.- will sit and idle at 160* but when you start driving it gets hot. Ive not overheated it yet, but i know it hovers around 200/215 * ( according to the gauge in the car, and my Blue Point Laser thermometer)

The only thing i can think of is that i need to go back to the cam driven pump since it should flow faster than the electric one.

Thanks,
Jeff

Anyone else have any ideas on what is making it run hot? ( have 2 coolant fans constantly running, and no vaccum leaks, and no CEL's.. ilso have NO EGR, and TB bypass. hooker super comp long tubes, vented opti, MSD coil and 8.5 wires.

 

posted 3 times and in the wrong forum, u gonna get moved man

try the classifieds

good luck with the search, i've got a friend with one i'll see if he wants to sell it

 

200 to 215 is not near overheating.

 

The CSR pump flows way more than a stock pump.

 

It's not your CSR.

200/215 is about normal in hot weather. I had the same problem last summer amd I did what you did, and it ended up being my radiator.

 

Do not post "parts wanted" or "for sale" in the tech forums.

 

How many times did you bleed the system from air bubbles ?
Rise the nose of the car overnight after you run the engine for a few minutes...seems that "procedure" can redirect the air bubbles upstream, where the bleed screws are located...(a mexican mechanic trick).....it works....believe
me

dochidalgo

 

well, my radiator is only like 10 months old. Im not sayin somethin couldnt be wrong with it, just saying that its not very likely..

 

Ok man- i will try that here in a couple days... Every time i start the car and am going to bleed it, - i let it run for a few minutes and then open the bleed valve ( on the thermostat housing- for some reason mine doesnt have it on the heater hose..) And just coolant sprays out...

 

Well the highest i've measured it was 220* and it was about 100 or so outside.

Do you agree with me that it is too hot though? Should i take the 160 thermo out and go back to a 180?

 

This is kind of weird but figured i'd mention it.


I did not notice my car overheating,( and now it just seems like it runs hot,)

Until i changed from the spark plugs that the computer at work calls for to a regular set of AC delco plugs. The computer calls for more expensive plugs, and i cant remember the numbers. but a guy i work with told me to put some AC Delco CR45ts plugs in it and that they would be cooler than what the guide calls for. ( since they say to go colder for running nitrous). I've not ran the nitrous on these colder plugs, but right after i changed to them the next day is when it started getting hot really fast. then overheating. and now it just warms up and runs betwn 215/220* at the T-stat housing with a 160 in it ( measured with a blue point laser themometer)

Could it be that the plugs are causing the problem some how?

 

NOT the plugs.
If the car wants to run 220 then a 160 "T"stat won't prevent that it will just open at a lower temp.

 

If you have a 160* therm. and you don't have your fans programmed to come on early you will be running at stock temp.

 

Absolutely not.

 

Well- this is odd- I guess the car just wants to run at the 215/220*

I've had the thermo out for a few days driving around because i flushed out all the coolant and put in some super radiator cleaner, so it says to drive it for like 3 to 6 hours total.... so today i drove to my buddies house like 30 mins away to work on the 69 SS vert we are puting TPI on.. it was atleast 95* outside when i left thismorning. But when i was gettin ready to come home it started raining- on the trip home i drove it no easier- infact i did a couple dougnuts in the road b4 leaving.. - but the car never got above 180 the whole way home, and i checked it with my laser thermometer and it said 177*
at the t-stat housing.

Odd?