JWA95TA

I was getting ready to replace my hoses on my 95 ta. I had a question about the hoses that attach via those crimped metal things.

I did a lot of searching on this msg board and I think I know what I need to do but I wanted to ask in a recent post to be sure.

If I get the hi miler kit then I get all the hoses but one. And all the hoses that go to that crimped metal I can dremel a metal slit and pry it off with a screwdriver right? And all the hoses I can take off like that or with normal clmaps right? There isnt any special ones that wont come off like that right?

Can I can just put the new ones on with a normal screw clamp?

Also, are there any that are really hard to get to with a dremel?

What I am doing is trying to decide if I just want to replace the main hoses or all of them? I was going to replace my heater core so I thought I would replace the hoses at the same time.

Any other thing I might need to look out for when I do this?

Thanks a lot for your help,

Jason

Z28barnett

I did this on my 95 z28 M6.

The hoses near the passenger side inner fender below the alternator will be very hard to get to. I ended up removing the entire assembly and working with them on a bench they are fastened to the frame with a torx screw. You may have to remove the alternator and battery to get some sort of access. I really can't tell you how I finally got it out, but it was very hard and frustrating. The others are hard but at least you can get to them.

Cut the clamps with hack saw or dremel until you get close to the closed end. Then put a screw driver in the slot and twist. They are aluminum and you should hear a pop when the front edge breaks. You may have to do some prying and twisting to get the hose off. Write down what you do and make yourself some sketches, there are 10 hoses and some of the replacements are not exactly the same shape. Many of the hose have to be cut to length.

You will need 10-12 hose clamps depending on how many of the spring clamps you reuse. They just need to be standard hose clamps in the 1/2-1" range, measure the outside of the hoses and check for the clamp range of the clamps.

You will need small vice grips and c-clamps and pliers to remove the old spring clamps. Unless you have some special chevy tool.

You will need 31" of 3/4" heater hose to make the connection from the heater valve to the heater core inlet hard line. You can get 3/4" hi-miler heater hose from summit about 25-30 bucks for 6 feet. That is what I did, if you have a truck repair place they may sell it by the foot.

They are pretty good hoses but I would give myself a couple of days to do this, I know that sounds crazy but the aluminum clamps and the difficult areas to work in make this job much harder than the typical car

BUBBA

As mentioned. Be careful when cutting the connectors. I went just a tad to deep and almost had to replace the soft aluminum pipe.

I just replaced my heater hose because my headers burned it. I replaced the short part with metal flex hose so that it wouldn't happen again.

My dremmel has an extension on it. I doubt that I could have reached the hose without it. JMHO

JWA95TA

thanks for the info!!

So that one hose you have to get about 6 feet of, that is the one hose not included in the hi-miler set??

2-3 days?!?! I am starting to think about just replacing the ones without the crimp on pieces with stock gm replacements and be done with it

Jason

ishz28

The long hose with the crimps can be bought from the dealer for 168$. Atleast that wya you don't have toworry about cutting and crimping.

Z28barnett

...So that one hose you have to get about 6 feet of, that is the one hose not included in the hi-miler set??...

Yes, it is 3/4" heater inlet hose. Hi-miler doesn't include it runs from the bottom of the heater inlet valve near the back center of the two rad fans, to one of the hard lines on the passenger side. I used 31" to make a lazy loop to the hardline. Any shorter and the hose wanted to pinch off. OEM was a formed hose in the shape of a "U". Inlet hose is 3/4" outlet is 5/8".

Those two passenger hard lines and the 4 hoses on both ends are the hardest part. There are 10 total clamps to cut off on this job if you have an oil cooler like I do. It is hard to take the hard line assembly out, if you could remove the torx screw that holds it to the inner fender and just pull it out half way that might be much faster. The rest of the hoses are easier, but the kit I got had no instructions at all.

Don't cut anything until you are sure you know where every hose goes and remember that you will have to cut several inches off many of the hoses sometimes at both ends.

You have to check the dia of each hose to help figure it out. If you have an oil cooler you have to cut one hose and make two out of it. This one hose has a bell end to adapt from one hose fitting dia to the other.

This is not a job to hurry, damage to the hard lines is very possible cut, until you see rubber and then stop. The thickness of the hose is the only thing protecting the hard line and at the closed end of the collar you don't have that anymore. This is why I would suggest the twisting screwdriver trick, don't try to cut the closed end of the collar just just cut from the back to the front and get the edge of the closed end started. Then push a screw driver in the saw kerf above the rubber between the halfs of the aluminum collar and slowly twist, that will spread and tear the front of the hose collar. You should then be able to pull the hose off with the collar still loosely clamped around it.

It will be much easier the next time, but the first time is hard. Or I am making this all sound too hard. When you get done post you opinion of the job.

Mtrhds94Z

The above is all good info except that the hose that goes from the 'lower 3/4" front heater line inlet pipe' to the 'heater water flow control valve' by the water pump [that the '3/4" elbow' goes into, on the other side of that valve] which is missing from the 'Hi Miler Kit' I believe can be a lot shorter than 31".
See shoebox' site diagram:
http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg
Hose 15 is the missing hose..
I used, instead, a piece of 3/4" 'heater hose', cut to about 14 1/2" [the p/n for a GM replacement hose for that is: 'heater inlet front hose' GM p/n 10146991]
I believe the above poster is forgetting[ or omitted in his application?] the flow control valve.. [he says use a 31" piece there]
I did all mine in place on the car.. the heater hoses were the hardest..
I also updated to 95-7 configuration..
What I would do is take your time, and do one at a time.. the easy ones first to get on a roll[ radiator and bypass hoses are the easiest]
I was going to do a writeup on it, and also the upgrade to 'late' configuration, but never got around to it..
A Dremel is pretty much a must.. I felt like a brain surgeon doing a few of the clamps on the car [ I also draped around when cutting, due to the flying abrasives etc]
I think for $100 for the kit, it's well worth doing, even with that one missing hose..
I communicated with the Goodyear engineering Dept and they promised to 'look into' that missing hose, but as far as I know they never added the missing hose..

Z28barnett

I had read your post before I started this install and expected to need 15" or so of hose.

I did keep the heater control valve and the elbow above it and I measured to keep the heater control valve at the same height.

The reason that it took 31" of blue high-miler 3/4" heater hose from summit and a lazy loop was due to the hose pinching shut when I tried to get it to make a tighter bend. Point to point I think 15" or so would be about right, but the hose did not want to take that sharp of bend. I fitted it before I cut it so there was no waste. I think 31" would be a max length, 14 1/2" would be great if it works for you. My car is a '95 and the hardlines and hose could be a little different than a car coverted to that hose arrangement.

The illustration of the hose 15 doesn't look anything like the hose that is really there on a '95 Z28. There is a major "U" shape and a tether that the hose passes though near the bottom of the radiator.

I did all of the hoses on the car but the pair of hardlines. But they were hard to get out, so which ever way you can get it done is fine by me. I think starting with the easy hoses is a good idea.

Mtrhds94Z

I'll look at it later but if I do recall correctly I MAY have used a straight piece instead of that elbow [# 12] also yes the 93-4 heater pipe may be SLIGHTLY different..
I did upgrade to 95-7 hose configuration but did use the 93-4 heater pipe assembly hard lines.. the rest is the same as 95-7..
No kink etc in mine by using the 14.5" piece, but obviously you did the right thing if that's what it took not to have a kink in it..

Edit: I checked it, and I did use a 3" straight piece in place of the 3/4" elbow, that probably accounts for the 14.5" being usable..
But it works fine[been about 2 years now]

Mtrhds94Z

TTT due to I edited last post..