continued trouble with spark retard
continued trouble with spark retard
ive had this problem of pulling up to 9degrees timing at wot and normally around 4300 rpm.
it pulls the timing really quick just one time during a wot run and slowly puts it back in even if i continue to go wot.
im trying to figure out why it would pull so much just at one spot.
the last couple days i have changed the fuel filter put in a lt4km and a new coil today.
logged some more runs and it still pulls timing at a certain rpm.
plugs are new and i looked at all of them and they look fine. looks like they have been burning good. coil wire and plug wires look good.
could it be opti? i would think if its the opti it would give me more trouble then im encountering.
im kind of stumped. the lt4km showed me its not false anyway so i know that much.
thanks for any help
it pulls the timing really quick just one time during a wot run and slowly puts it back in even if i continue to go wot.
im trying to figure out why it would pull so much just at one spot.
the last couple days i have changed the fuel filter put in a lt4km and a new coil today.
logged some more runs and it still pulls timing at a certain rpm.
plugs are new and i looked at all of them and they look fine. looks like they have been burning good. coil wire and plug wires look good.
could it be opti? i would think if its the opti it would give me more trouble then im encountering.
im kind of stumped. the lt4km showed me its not false anyway so i know that much.
thanks for any help
Re: continued trouble with spark retard
first determine if it is real or false knock get xylene from a paint store add 2 gallons to 1/2 tank of gas if knock is gone =false knock. tune your knock out or whatever the term is 9 degrees is a lot.
Re: continued trouble with spark retard
well i tried to find some xylene but around here a couple places didn't want to give it to me i guess cause its really toxic. highest octane gas around here is 91 also. i can't seem to find any race gas either. this makes it really hard for me to find out if its false or real knock.
im just wondering if maybe i only had a couple gallons of fuel in tank and just added some kind of octane booster if that would increase octane level much. i know it wont do much with a full tank or even half but if i barely have any gas in there and then add it maybe that would be better?
im just wondering if maybe i only had a couple gallons of fuel in tank and just added some kind of octane booster if that would increase octane level much. i know it wont do much with a full tank or even half but if i barely have any gas in there and then add it maybe that would be better?
Re: continued trouble with spark retard
i have a similar problem. Its not at 4300 rpm though. I go WOT and i get retard, around 9 degrees, and the pcm slowly brings it down to zero if i have full throttle for long enough, i mean looong.
Im going to check the knock sensor to see if its in tight, and i might even replace it and see what happens. I cant think of anything that would vibrate only initially and not during the entire WOT run.
Im going to check the knock sensor to see if its in tight, and i might even replace it and see what happens. I cant think of anything that would vibrate only initially and not during the entire WOT run.
Re: continued trouble with spark retard
Are you running manifolds or headers? Make sure you don't have an exhaust leak. Check for leaks and get some high octane fuel (through any means necessary). Check back then with any updates. Good luck.
Re: continued trouble with spark retard
check your fuel pressure... that seems to be a common cause of real knock. If you get KR with an LT4KM and you dont have solid lifters, then most likely it is real knock.
You also might wanna check your injectors or your sensors. A faulty MAF could also cause that problem. Could be one of infinite problems, but look up info on where the MAF and MAP sensors should be reading (i believe bret bauer has a good writeup on this) as this could also be a problem.
You also might wanna check your injectors or your sensors. A faulty MAF could also cause that problem. Could be one of infinite problems, but look up info on where the MAF and MAP sensors should be reading (i believe bret bauer has a good writeup on this) as this could also be a problem.
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