Ok. I am trying to plan out what I want to put into a '93-'97 TA and I am thoroughly confused by all the different choices out there.

I think I'm understanding now that a 383/396 doesn't have to be an LT1, but can be. There is just a regular SBC, but that is different from the LT1 block, right?

Now, why do some people not just use the LT1 block from their car and opt to build a new non-LT1 engine? What are the pros and cons of either?

That being said, can you please make some recommendations for me?

I want to build an engine that has a considerable amount of power, but doesn't have to be the fastest thing around. Maybe somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-500rwhp? It would be used for a daily driver. I'm also interested in a possible FI setup in the future (most likely SC) and would like to keep that in mind when building this engine. Does that usually work ok to build an engine for future FI, but not having one on for awhile?

Money is an issue of course, but I'm on no strict budget. I want to do things right and not skimp, but I also don't want to be excessive. There must be a happy medium, huh?!

Thanks so much!
Jeremy

 

SBC 396 Bal and BP, big stick (solid) Big Flow heads (9:1 CR) Pro Charger 12-15 Boost, 4400 Stall, 410 gears,9"+ rear. Lots of tires.

 

Any engine can be fit into the 4th Gen F-Body, but the most straight-forward approach is to use the LT1 block as the basis. I'd guess that 95-98% of the people have used that approach. The majority of people chosing to go the "Gen 1" SBC route would be hard core racers, not concerned with carving up the cowl to fit a distributor, or investing large $$$ in an aftermarket computer and distributorless ignition system.

For max HP in a normally aspirated engine, you are typically looking at 11:1 compression ratio or higher. You will want a cam with a 112LSA or less. Opt for forced induction, and you build with 9.0-9.5:1 CR and a 114LSA, and give up the N/A power while you are waiting to install the S/C or turbo.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

So are we talking a BIG sacrifice with the NA hp until the s/c is installed? Is it typically more expensive to build an engine to handle FI than it is to build a big hp NA engine?

 

If you plan on going wild like stroker and SC with high boost run a LT4 block or sometyhing with a 4 bolt main not an LT1

 

Actually no there shouldnt be a huge loss NA with a blower motor. If memory serves correct, 1 point of compression is worth 3% of total hp or is said to at least. So basically you're not losing much hp at all.

In regards to cost, building a boost motor compared to an NA motor should be relatively the same. Differences being parts and machine work for desired CR.

 

97SS, thanks for the advice; I forgot that I had read that somewhere before too. What is the difference? Is it stronger? Did I read before that you could convert an LT1 to 4-bolt? Is that ok to do?

Camaroboy, that's good to hear. If I'm dropping all this money to rebuild the engine, I definately won't be able to talk the wife into a S/C right away! I'll have to wait a bit until the memory becomes foggy!

So, if I'm building an engine for a blower, what will I definately want to have as far as components are concerned?

 

You're going to want forged pistons, rods and crank for sure. Those internals will hold up very well to boost or anything you can really throw at them. You will need a good set of head gaskets as well. Fel-Pro makes some with a copper? ring around the cylinder on the gasket made for high boost and compression to be on the safe side. I'd also advise an aftermarket pair of head castings too. Stockers dont have the potential a nice set of AFRs do. Your best bet is to talk to an engine builder since theres no way you can do this yourself, I strongly suggest this and will be doing the very same. Combo Motorsports and Bauer Racing Engines are site sponsors and have great reps here. I suggest giving both those companies a call and let them take care of you. Theres a lot of planning and money to be spent on a project such as this. Prepare to spend AT BARE MINIMUM $20,000 for all drivetrain, valvetrain, suspension, chassis components and the motor itself.

EDIT: I suppose the blower could be included in that price as well but dont forget upgrading the fuel system too.

 

For internals you want lower compression pistons i'd say about a 9.0:1 ratio, make sure its all forged too, spend the ching on a forged crank if you can afford it, its worth its weight in GOLD,

With a setup like that, and keeping your fingers crossed your running some good heavy heads that wont lift you should be able to run 12-15 PSI out of that blower on there, can we say TIRE SMOKE?

 

Thank you both! This is exactly the type of information I was hoping to receive.

My goodness... I get all excited inside just thinking about it all!

I'll definately give the people at Combo and Bauer a call.

Typically, how much $$$ do you suppose one would save by assembling some of the engine themselves? Is it worth it?

Jeremy

 

Just to clarify, there is no such thing as an "LT4 block". There is an LT1 block with 2-bolt mains (F-Body, full size cars) and an LT1 block with 4-bolt mains (Corvette LT1, Corvette LT4, the few rare F-Body LT4's and all "replacement" blocks). The casting number is the same on both blocks.

A 4-bolt Corvette block was used for the world's quickest LT1 - 1,125HP 383 Vortech S/C. Others have successfully done a "splayed 4-bolt conversion" on the 2-bolt block.

 

Injuneer,

So then is it best to use the 2 bolt, 4 bolt, or splayed 4-bolt? Is the last one reliable?

 

Straight 4-bolt is good enough. Splayed isnt necessary and theres a few guys putting some good numbers through straight caps.

To your other question, you'd save about $1000 or a little more by assembling it yourself. Leave it to the pros. Not to say it cant be done, but for the money you save I dont think its worth taking a chance.