I can't use the stock ones because I sold my engine ,and built a 383 short block.. I will create a new valve train.. I heard lots people use the R style without a problem.. Okay there is some people who got the problem ,but lots of people use these.

 

i have comp r lifters that i recently put in with no problems as of yet (crossing fingers). i have 1500 miles on my new setup. i really had a hard time deciding if i should stick with them as well when i ordered them. but then i read that they recently did a complete redesign with the lifters and that they were good to go, so i went with them. dont know that ive read about too many problems with the new ones. i took a LOT of time setting up my valvetrain before i ever turned the engine over. made sure as soon as i had it running that i went over the valvetrain to make sure that everything is still running right (actually, ive done this several times since the rebuild). i feel this is all you can really do to help prevent any problems with them. and if you go with the lifters, call the comp and get any recommendations they might have for installing them.

mystic mentioned earlier that he has his rockers set at 3/4 to 1 full turn past 0 lash. i dont recommend that with comp r's. i dont know if thats what he's using, but that is certainly not what the manufacturer recommends for the comp r's. try turning these rockers past 1/4 turn and you'll notice a large decrease in power. or at least i did. 1/16 works the best for me.

EDIT: my reason for this post is to put in a good word for the product that i purchased. my results have been good thus far with my setup.

EDIT #2: hungryta, i envy you. budapest (or hungary in general) has got to have some of the best looking women in the world. ive been there once and would go back in a second!

 

Pics, as promised:

*click on the view full size option to clean up the pics, webshots wouldn't let me directly link the pics.*

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...31232945XprCgb

This one above gives you a general idea of the new retainer design. You can see it's much more rugged and improved. Yes, that's it, the thick "plate" running on either side of the plunger/pushrod.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...31233025drRuWn

This one above gives a better idea because the plunger is depressed, and you can actually get a pretty good visual on the retainer.

Sorry, I thought I was going to be able to get a better shot of them. These are the new retainer design though, the lifters came to me straight from Comp about 10 weeks ago now. I called and asked to make sure that I got the right lifters and they informed me of the new design on the retainer.

 

good to know...

Thanks for the pics.. these retainers look a LOT beefier..

 

I just purchased some about 3 weeks ago, what are the chances mine are right, Comp R's that is, as mine came straight from them.
I adjusted mine on the engine stand, doing 1/4 turn. Motor runs fine.

 

Don't care how beefy the retainer is, you don't want to run "zero" lash or you will beat things apart. Noticed that they'd beefed things up on the last set I used.... that's a good thing.

The Morel lifters are real nice and they will take alot of abuse. They're twice the $ but I wouldn't hesitate paying that on a component that wins the "Most likely to fail and tear stuff up" award.

Chances are, many of you don't need the "R" lifters anyways.

-Mindgame

 

Oh, but I will be needing a "R" lifter for sure.. I am building a 355 that should make upwards of 425-450rwhp and will spin to 6800+... I DO NEED the type "R" lifters, and you dont have to worry about me cranking them down.. I usually go the minimum lash that is required to make everything happy..

 

How true, how true.

If you guys notice that first pic, the plunger is up at the top. That valve/lifter is on the base lobe of that cam, and if you look closely you can see how very little pre-load is actually on there. I'm running a 7/16 stud and that is about 1/16-1/8 turn. I didn't have a dial indicator so it's not exact, but it's a tiny amount. But you can see how easily the thicker threads of the 7/16 stud can affect how quickly it pre-loads the lifter too.

 

Going straight to hell for going against a manufacturer's recommendation vette.

.002-.004" preload

Straight from Comp's bible. Oh the hypocrisy....

-Mindgame

 

And how far past zero pre load would that be ?

 

How would you go about measuring .002-.004 preload. Would you have to set up a dial indicator at the same angle as the pushrod and measure that way. I never really thought about actually "measuring" the preload before. It has been discussed on hear many times that approx. 1/16th turn on a 7/16 stud would be close. I'd be intersted in trying the "correct" way as I will be doing this as soon as Brett is done with my cam(hopefully next week).

 

I have been runing the 1/4 turn on R lifters on 3 different motors this way. Also, on two of them I did the 1/4 turn past "clicking" as the engine was running.
I think they are going to be fine.

 

I was actually thinking of setting them a little tight(approx. 1/4 turn) and then once the car was fired to loosen them one at a time till I hear clanking and then adjust them at that point. I'd still like to try them a different way, if there is a different way, by actually measuring them for preload.I am at least curious too see how it would turn out.

 

I am sure you could use a dial indicator, as that would be very acurrate. I think Comp Cams needs to tell us why there lifters are so screwed up to need the preload they require. being a hydraulic cam, you should be able to go up to one turn, but since it is a anti-pump up lifter design, this is how they designed., Cranes arent this way, or GM's.

 

Are we picking and choosing what advice we want to follow from our manufacturers vette40th?

Been a common practice for years now to lighted up the preload if you want to turn better ET's. I've seen a number of hydraulic cars pick up 2 tenths going from ~1/4 to 1/8 turn or less. Most of the times they respond well... then there are those that don't and that's a whole other can of variables.

I have always had best success running the comp R at 1/16-1/8 turn. You can use a feeler and a dial indicator if you want to set it up like Comp recommends. There's a thread where this was discussed once before. Just search for it.

-Mindgame