Comp was having a lot of issues with that clip design. From what I remember if the lash was set too light the plunger could impact the retainer and cause it to fail. Comp has subsequently changed their retainer design to a MUCH more rugged setup. If you want a pic let me know because the manifold is off my car right now.

 

Of course we want a pic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Heatmaker, yes, it's sure very clean inside, 46K on the odo, never used synthetic oil...

 

Fastbird, that's good news! Do they have a different part number?
Please post pics!! Thanks!

 

I'll get pics up later this evening (Monday) probably about 1800 EST.

 

Yes I"ve had a Comp R lifter fail as well, problem is you can't hear it when they fail like that, the car just looses power and who knows you may even be not seating all the way because the 0-lash is now 1 turn past as the clip is gone and the plunger pumps up.

Mine failed and heck I swear I looked high and low and can't find the stupid clip, its not even a C clip, its more of an O clip and looks real flimsy compared to the stock stuff.

Aparently the O clip they use is supposed to be stronger for running 0 lash but boy one did fail and I got a new one from them as replacement, who knows one day I'll look.

Last time I did Ti Retainers I checked to see if one failed, I took an old pushrod and put a huge magnet on it, I then put the pushrod on every lifter as I can't see them with heads/intake and hydra rev kit on, but if a clip failed the punger stuff would lift with the pushrod and non did which is a relief.

But I was pretty upset, imagine running a close tolerance piston to valve clearance and the pluger pumps up due to no c-clip at high RPM, then valve kisses the piston and bye bye.


But yeah, mine are about 6-8 month old lifters, the replacement is about 5-6 month and came in looking the same. I think this is a risk you take when you buy any NIB parts, they were not tested yet and you get 16 of them, chances of one failing do to quality control are very high I'd say.

This being the case because I bought new springs/lifters and 1 spring failed from Comp which is a 977 spring, broke in 3 pieces, and 1 lifter failed, and no the lifter is not the same one driving the failed spring, lifter failed was #1 intake and valve spring failed was #8 exhaust, makes me think twice about Comp's quality control. So from now on I think I"ll stick to buying used valve springs from good people and used lifters from good people here as long as rollers are good, this way the stuff I know did not fail and chances are they won't, I think it's all in the quality control, if it don't fail within 2k miles it prolly won't

 

bunker, thanks for your input! Yeah, that makes me worried, too

 

how do you choose lifters in relation to springs?
i had new comp r 's installed with my le1 package, drove on that for 6 months, now upgrading to a 23x 24x cam with .579 lift, i -think- my machinest is using the 987 springs, u choose springs based on cam lift correct?, how do u choose lifters?
-Jason

 

in my opinion....don't use the comp r's. I have seen so many people say their's fell apart. Do a search and you will see. Comp need to do some evaluating on the engineering of those things. There needs to be a bigger market for high performance hydrualic lifters. As far as i know, comp r's and oem are the only two to choose from.

 

Thunder Racing sells Morels lifters They are not cheap. I never heard of them before.

 

Schubeck Racing has the 'Zero-lash' and 'Roller-X' lifters, I've heard only good things about them.

 

they are for LS engines...not lt1's

 

Cr*p, I have the 875 lifters still in the packaging and planning on installing in a few weeks. Hopefully someone knows how to tell if these are the old style or the new and improved style or maybe I should stick with the stock lifters

 

Look at my pictures in the first post, they're the old style.

 

i think it is ok to say crap