Well, I've taken the car to a shop that specializes in LSxs but was willing to take this one on. They said the fuel is good & spraying, the sensors are all giving readings - even the crank position sensor. The computer seems to be fine & the Optispark is sparking!

But it won't start!

They think there must be something wrong internally & want to do exploratory dissasembly.

Any ideas?

 

The timing chain might have jumped a couple of teeth? The shop should be able to diagnose it without tearing into the engine.

BTW, I also came over from nasty z28. I still drop in over there some but hardly ever post. Welcome to the 4th gen community. Once you get her up and running, you won't be disapointed.

 

I would have the shop check the compression before they
do "exploratory dissasembly".

 

ehh that sounds kinda fishy, i would start out with replacing the opti, plugs and wires and if it still doesnt run, then you can tear it apart if you wish.

just my .02

 

The opti is sparking so I assume that the plugs are receiving fire. Check the plugs and see if they are fouled. Alot of cranking with no start can gas foul plugs out. Went through it myself.

 

X 2

will it fire with starting fluid?

 

Well I got myself a Chilton & some hand cleaner & got after it.

The No start was caused by the rotor being "loose." The two screws were out & ratteling around inside the OS. And the little plastic pin was broken off of the rotor. I guess it was pointed down & towards the #1 pin in the rotor. Maybe this led 2 different shops to say the OS was good??

Any way I just got a new rotor & cap. (Wow I can't believe $165 is the going rate for a rotor & Cap!) I put it back together & she ran! No error codes at all.

I also replaced the broken Harmonic balancer/pully & the water pump since I was already in there.

Man she runs! Too well!

Now I'm of to solve the overheating problem.....

Many thanks to all that helped.

 

Congrats on the fix. I'm glad it wasn't something too bad. If it's over heating, you may have air in the cooling system. Compared to a normal car, it's a pain getting all of the air out.

 

Congrats on getting it running. Yes I agree it sounds like you have bubbles in the system. Its fairly easy to get them out though, there should be two bleeder screws visible.

Shbox.com is great site full of information.

 

Funny, I just helped a guy in town with the same problem, we removed the cap and the screws and the rotor fell out. make sure you installed the drive cuppling, if it's missing it will overheat quickly!

 

Thanks for the support. Even though everything isn't ironed out yet I can tell a 4th Gen can do things most 2nds will never do.

I put that coupling thing in. I did scrounge up an O ring to put on the driven gear of the pump. The manual said there needed to be one on the pump but the old pump didn't have one & there wasn't one in the box. I guess its more for vibration controll or something? I had to move the driven gear on the pump a few times to get the teeth to line up so the pump would easily seat.

I was leaning towards air in the system or possibly a clogged radiator. Man I hope its not a leaking head gasket! Remember the car has been setting for about 2 years. also I haven't heard the fans kick on yet. but that may be because of the healthy rumbleJ Heh, heh. What temp should the fans kick on at?

 

Don't forget about a stuck stat.

 

Your fans will turn on at low speed at 226*F and the high speed at 235*F, with stock programming.

 

With stock programming, if the car is idling and there is no airflow, is it expected for the car to run between 226 and 235 and having the high fans turn on and off to compensate or are the low fans usually enough to keep the car hovering at a constant temp?