Cleaned my MAF, did I do it right?
Cleaned my MAF, did I do it right?
Hello all,
I put a K&N FIPK on about 5000 miles ago, and in keeping with what the K&N manual and the posts on here read, I took my MAF off to clean it. The manual states something to the effect of an oiled filter making your MAF screen & sensors dirty.
Anyway, here's what I did. I took the MAF off and let it cool down, then took a large can of carb/choke cleaner and sprayed a few parts. The screen came clean, but the inside of the MAF ends were still horribly dirty, as were the MAF sensors themselves. I took the MAF ends off, set the sensor aside, and sprayed/toothbrushed/wiped clean the MAF ends. Next, I took the plastic sensor housing and very lightly sprayed the sensor elements until I saw silver again. <-- This is the part I'm concerned about. I've heard the only real problem with cleaning the MAF is if you TOUCH the elements with something, spraying them while cool won't do much. The car idles better, has a better throttle response, and I *think* it's pulling a bit harder down low, but that might just be in my head.
Anyway, the car runs perfect now, and as long as I didn't do anything too dangerous, I'd recommend any of you with FIPK's and a slight hesitation down low and/or a rough idle give this a try. It worked for me, and as far as I know, this is the original MAF, which means it's 9 years old with 100k miles on it, and it took a cleaning very well.
Thanks for your time, please respond with your thoughts.
I put a K&N FIPK on about 5000 miles ago, and in keeping with what the K&N manual and the posts on here read, I took my MAF off to clean it. The manual states something to the effect of an oiled filter making your MAF screen & sensors dirty.
Anyway, here's what I did. I took the MAF off and let it cool down, then took a large can of carb/choke cleaner and sprayed a few parts. The screen came clean, but the inside of the MAF ends were still horribly dirty, as were the MAF sensors themselves. I took the MAF ends off, set the sensor aside, and sprayed/toothbrushed/wiped clean the MAF ends. Next, I took the plastic sensor housing and very lightly sprayed the sensor elements until I saw silver again. <-- This is the part I'm concerned about. I've heard the only real problem with cleaning the MAF is if you TOUCH the elements with something, spraying them while cool won't do much. The car idles better, has a better throttle response, and I *think* it's pulling a bit harder down low, but that might just be in my head.
Anyway, the car runs perfect now, and as long as I didn't do anything too dangerous, I'd recommend any of you with FIPK's and a slight hesitation down low and/or a rough idle give this a try. It worked for me, and as far as I know, this is the original MAF, which means it's 9 years old with 100k miles on it, and it took a cleaning very well.
Thanks for your time, please respond with your thoughts.
Total time was about an hour. As soon as I got home I pulled the MAF (it was still pretty hot, keep a towel handy if you have a low pain threshold).. I let it sit for about 15 minutes, it cooled off okay. Took about 15 minutes to remove the MAF ends, clean everything, and put the MAF back together. Then I let it air-dry for about 30 minutes. I picked it up every 2 or 3 minutes and blew as hard as I could through it to help dry it off. So yeah, total turnaround was about an hour for it, and I'd say it was worth it.
Originally posted by IXLR894Z28
Looks like I have a weekend project now, thanx!
Looks like I have a weekend project now, thanx!
Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6
Carb and choke cleaner is not the first choice. Electrical contact cleaner is since it dries 100% clean and residue free.
Carb and choke cleaner is not the first choice. Electrical contact cleaner is since it dries 100% clean and residue free.
I was one of the, if not the, first ones to use the contact cleaner on the MAF sensor several years ago.
I recently found it will not take off as much residue as a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol will. It's a night and day difference comparing what the filaments look like afterward.
And yes, I do suggest doing this. Make sure you get both sides of the filaments!
I recently found it will not take off as much residue as a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol will. It's a night and day difference comparing what the filaments look like afterward.
And yes, I do suggest doing this. Make sure you get both sides of the filaments!
Doesn't take more than 5 minutes. Take it out, clean the resistors with rubbing alky and q tips. Wipe down the inside and if you want spray the screen. Let it air dry (I put it infront of my fan for a couple minutes). 30 minutes of drying is not necessary... electrical cleaner and rubbing alcohol dry very fast when exposed to air.
so here is what i gotta do...
take the whole thing apart, and MAKE sure i dont touch the wires...
and i clean the inside of the MAF with some electrical cleaner... and the resistors, with a qtip... (can i use qtip on the resistors, or are those 3 lil wires are the resistors) well, lemme put it this way.. what can i qtip, and what can i not? (pic would help, dont wanna mess this thing up)
and here is teh important part... i cant touch the 3 lil wires in there, but just spray them with electrical cleaner, and make sure they go perfectly dry right? (clean it with the spray, as if air was flowing through it, and it will dry itself clean)
take the whole thing apart, and MAKE sure i dont touch the wires...
and i clean the inside of the MAF with some electrical cleaner... and the resistors, with a qtip... (can i use qtip on the resistors, or are those 3 lil wires are the resistors) well, lemme put it this way.. what can i qtip, and what can i not? (pic would help, dont wanna mess this thing up)
and here is teh important part... i cant touch the 3 lil wires in there, but just spray them with electrical cleaner, and make sure they go perfectly dry right? (clean it with the spray, as if air was flowing through it, and it will dry itself clean)
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