This is extremely urgent ! If any of you can shed some light or gime me any suggestions please let me know ASAP. I'm have to make my decision by tomorrow.

I'm going to be ordering a (SPOHN) http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1048 Torque Arm tomorow. My boss is letting me order it on his credit card and I'll pay him back with my next paycheck. Thing is, he's going on vacation tomorrow evening so tomorrow morning will be my last chance to order it till he comes back in like, a month or so.

Here's the question.

Spohn has 2 different torque arm option.

1. Standard "Mild Steal" version $375
2. Chrome Moly version of the above $500


Which do I get? I know the chrome moly version will be lighter (how much?) and stronger (how much?) than the mild steel piece, but I just want to know whether or not it's worth the extra $115. Will there be a noticible difference in traction with the chrom-moly piece? Or is it totally overkill?
I'm kind of leaning to the high end version right now 'cause I hate buying things when I know there's something else out there that's better ya 'know?

Please tell me what you think. What do you suggest I do? URGENT!!

I'd go with the mild steel. Unless i was building a race car and worried about every pound of weight that was going into it.

Its over kill, I have the mild steel one.

With the CM you save about 5 pounds. But acording to steve the CM is three times stronger. But is 100.dollars more expensive. I chose the CM fully loaded front & rear drive shaft loop. Which is proable more that I needed but in the future who knows?

Mild steel is good enough unless your doing some heavy duty racin..

Mild steel will work just fine. The only chromoly I'm going to run on my TT car is the rollbar(if it ever goes in).

So what exactly qualifies as "heavy duty" racing?? My car runs 11's now and maybe one day, possibly, my goal would be to run mid to high tens. That's long term if at all. Would the M/S be good enogh for that. I'm sure there were plenty of guys running those times and even faster long before companies were selling chromoly pieces. What do you think?

I guess deep down inside I kind of want the M/S piece 'cause I'll then have enough mony to buy those BMR boxed control arms I wanted too. On the other hand, if I need the chromoly piece to reach my goals, then I don't have much choice then huh?

Keep the responses coming guys. I really appreciate it. Thanks to those of you who've already given me your input

Well, since you said you want BMRs boxed LCAs, you sound like an overkill person, if you are going to get the boxed lcas, then get the chromemoly torque arm. Id say get the mild steel torque arm, and get either just plain mild steel tubular lcas, or the chromemoly lcas, in fact i emailed bmr and the chromemoly lcas are almost 5 lbs lighter than the mild steel ones, if i remember correctly, and like 7 lighter than the boxed, and stronger than at least the mild steel tubes. so in conclusion, if you are going to overkill one thing, might as well overkill the other. if any of this makes sense im kinda myself

Well, you do have a point there. The boxed set are probably overkill but the difference in price is only about $10. While the difference from one torque arm to the next is like $115.00. Keep in mind aswell, that I live in canada soo I have to multiply whatever US price by like 1.5% So $10US is about $15 Can. Not big deal. But $115US is roughly $180 ($75 more). Add to that the 15% tax I haveto pay extra once it croses the border and the extra $$ just keeps adding up.

Man I wish I lived in the US.

Have you thought about BMRs trak pak? Its almost $100 cheaper to start with, then you pick up one of their weld in DS loops for $25, get it all welded in for $50 and save yourself a bunch of money, and Taner runs it to 9.60 with a 1.27 60ft so there must be something good about it. You can also save on your shipping since you could order your LCAs at the same time, also the trak pak looks much lighter than the spohn when both in mild steel form.

I am curious if thats 5 lb EACH or for the pair?
Thanks
Charlie

I think the mild steel is strong enough. Mine has >800rwhp and weighs more than 4,000lbs (with driver) and it has lasted three years without a problem.

Rich Krause

The problem with all the mild steel parts is that the weight starts to add up fast - at least I think it does. I have been pulling everything I possibly can out of my car... AC, bumper supports, front sway bar, rear seat and belts, radio and speakers, catback, AIR, insulation under the carpet, light weight racing seat, Welds/skinnies.... and the car still tips the scales at 3,637# with me (180#) in it.

The only thing I can figure is that all the mild steel upgrades.... Spohn TA, LCA's, LCA brackets, PHR, etc, plus the extremely thick/heavy Spohn chrome moly rear sway bar, plus a chrome moly roll bar and SFC's is contributing to the car's OBESE configuration. I would give anything to lose another 200# and get down to a weight where the fast cars are at.

Thanks a lot guys. I REALLY appreciate you all taking the time to try and help me out . After some serious thought I made my decision based on the fact that most of you reccomended the M/S version. That's what I decided to get.

The way I see it, there were cars running 10's, 9's, and probably even 8's long before suspention companies started selling expensive chromoly parts. A friend of mine is running 9.40's in his 70 roadrunner without any chrome moly in his car what-so-ever. If he can get away with using M/S on his race car, I'm sure it'll work just fine for my street car

Anyways, I got an email from a guy named Aaron. he told me he could give me a deal on the SPOHN Torque Arm. I don't know whether or not he's a member of this forum but if he is I'd just like to thank you for all your E-mails. You answered all my questions and beat all the advertised prices on other websites. Thanks again.

For those of you who want to know, this is a link to Aaron's homepage:

http://www.acaenterprises.com/catalog/