got the car back last sat and the engine light has been on since. this is the second time its been done but this time they took it from 30 to 40 over on my stroker motor. everything is new in it again. the problem is it is running so rich that i even had a backfire thru the cold air intake yesterday for the first time and wants to stall out every time i stop, but it runs great besides that. it gets bad tho where i smell like gas just sitting in it. it is eating gas fast. i tried getting the codes read at 2 different places and it is unreadable for some reason and cant get in the computer. i do have the pcm for less tune i got the first time around and nothing has really changed on that part for another tune(i called byran and asked, just the cam was changed but not far in #s from the last cam he said to redue the tune) the car did sit for almost 2 years before i just rebuilt it tho. for some reason this place put autolite plugs in it and im changing them today to the ngk iranium plugs and not lookin forward to it. i got the colant temp sensor to im doing for the heck of it, and if that dont work im gonna do the o2 senors. i tried to find a vacuum leak with no sucsess altho i seen they forgot to plug my colant lvl sensor back in. and i had to shim my motor mount brackets up to get my headers off the steering shaft it was sitting on they didnt do. oh, i also ran some seafoam in the tank just in case an injector might be stuck from sitting so long or something. didnt do nothing really. or maybe the computer is bad since nobody can get in it, just says error. but i did only go to 2 differ auto parts store to have it done but were 2 differ kinds of scanners. i dont see how it could of went bad tho with just sitting there. i also had someone tell me that i might need it reflashed by bryan since it sit for so long with no power. oh yeah, i pulled a plug on each side and they didnt seem to be all blacked up and soaked altho they did smell like gas but they only been in the car for a few days. i could really use some input. thanks in advance

 

My guess is the reason the car can't be scanned is because the places you went were using an OBDII code puller, when your car is OBDI. They see the OBDII connector and think that's what it is.

 

thats what i was telling them and they insisted it was a obdII and said the connection was different for the obdI. they were sayin that obdII started in 94

 

The first year for the obdII was 96 in the fbody. My son has a 95 Z28...we had to order a special cable for our obdI actron scanner in order to use it for the 95 model due to the obdII connector being used on a obdI car. I think there is a process described on shbox.com that will explain how to use the obdI cable on the 95 fbody and get results.

 

well i called the parts store and ran the numbers on these crap autolite plugs they put in and they are made to go in mazda, honda ans acura. pretty dang messed up. gonna test drve it down to the parts store and see if they dont have the adapter for the obdI scanner tomy car

 

The shop is wrong.

-93-94 are OBD I (rectangle connector also called ALDL port)
-95 is unique, I have often heard it refered to as OBD 1.5 because they added a couple of sensors (an odd phase) it is OBD I, but it might have an OBD II style connector?(trapazoid)
-96-02 is OBD II and a standard OBD II puller will work with those.

 

nick3:
"well i called the parts store and ran the numbers on these crap autolite plugs they put in and they are made to go in mazda, honda ans acura. pretty dang messed up."
You didn't mention the plug number but there are quite a few LT1 owners running Autolite 104 or 103 plugs and happy with them.

 

the plug # is a 5224 autolite they had in it. and they were able to scan it using the obdII scanner. they punched in my zin # in it and it read all the codes. it was a new scaner they used this time and was a obdII scaner. the code it the maf. i have the jet performance on it from day one but while my car sit with the orignal guy that was suppost to fix it for 2 years and never did, his son stole the maf and alot of other parts totaling 3000 bucks off of it. i chased and hunted most of the punks down and got most of my parts back including the maf and i guess they still messed it up. im trying to find my stock one but its been 3 years since i had it in my hands. nothing but bad luck since i got this car. im tired of it. i mean the car enigine blew within 24 hours of bying it. then i put a used motor in it and a rod was knocking before i got home. then i rebuilt the original motor to the 383 and a ton of parts with it. it lasted 6 months and sit for 2 years, and i just redid the hole dang thing again and all this. including athrowout bearing about to take a dump on it when it was suppost to be a new clutch in it i paid for but i got ripped there to.

 

OBD-1.5 only refers to the Corvette version of the 95 PCM, which added an after-cat O2 sensor. The 95 F-Bodys are identical to the 94 F-Bodys, with the only difference being the use of a 16-pin OBD-II style ALDL connector.

Shoebox has a photo showing the use of 2 jumper wires to allow reading the 16-pin 95 connector with a 12-pin OBD-I scanner:

http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg

Autllite plugs are not "junk".... I run the 104's with my stroker running NA, and the 103's with a 125-shot.

Have you verified the fuel pressure? Are you sure your injectors match what the PCM is porgrammed for? Do you have any exhaust leaks? Are you running open headers?

 

i havent checked the fuel pressure myself cuz i dont have a pressure guage but when it was built bryan told me to keep it to factory settings when i got the holly afpr so i told the builder to do so. and also had bryan tune the computer for the 42 pound injectors. it ran fine and never like this the first time it was built. there are no exhuast leaks or vacuum leaks. i went over everything. the maf is not working at all. and the guy did use the obdII scanner and i seen him take the obdII connector also and it worked. they did punch in my vin into it first. i seen it myself. is there a way that the later cars made at the end of the year obdII? and no open headers. i got midtube pacesetters cuz the front of the car sits only 3 to 4 inches off the ground. but the only code is the maf. cant find my old one dangit. need to get one now. oh, when it comes to putting plugs in a lt1 when they are made for *** 4cyl cars and are ur basic dollar a piece plugs they are junk to me. not knocking on all of them. just the ones they put in the car.

 

They probably had a scan tool that does both OBDI and OBDII, and used the proper cable. I have a scan tool that does both, and IIRC, on a '95 the VIN, or part of the VIN, has to be entered into the tool. Some other cars require that as well.

 

oh, ok. it was a $200 scanner they used and it was at at orileys. thanks for everyones help. got to find a maf now and the problem with it. i had the car tuned for the jet maf and now its shot from the theives screwing it up so now i have to get something equal to that or get another tune with a stock one. only thing is i hear the stockers are only good for 450 500hp and im right at that and with nitous im well over that. dont know if a ported one gives the same readings at the jet.

 

If you are making the 500 HP with nitrous, the MAF sensor is not a limitation. Nitrous subcools the air charge, significantly reducing its volume.

Without the MAF, you are running speed-density. The question becomes how accurate are the VE tables? Is the IAT sensor connected and producing the correct temperature signal? Is the MAP sensor connected and producing the correct signal? Its a very common problem for the MAP sensor harness connector to dry out and crumble, producing a faulty MAP signal. Speed-density requires accurate VE tables, and accurate IAT and MAP signals to function.

No "end of year" 95's are OBD-II. The entire model year was OBD-I.

Spark plugs aren't "made for *** 4cyl cars". They are not "made to go in Mazda, Honda....". Those are ignorant statements. The plug manufacturer makes a complete line of plugs, and the car manufacturer selects from what's avaialble. The fact that someone in Honda Engineering picked the same plug that happens to work very well in some high HP LT1's is a coincidence. I've run 128 MPH in the 1/4 on a 125-shot using the Autolite 103's.

 

i run rear 500hp at the crank without my 150 shot. and yes the map sensor is fine and working. the maf is pluged in and checked many times. the code comes up maf failure. the codes were cleared and as soon as i started the car back up the light came on right away and checked it again before i left there parking lot and it was the same code. and thanks for clearing up the obd thing

and its ur opinion and ur choice to put plugs in that numbers match a mazda or honda. i dont do it. and yes i read many times about people putting 103s and 104s in there lt1s and ive looked them up/ they are sold for lt1s. put some dollar a piece 5224s in ur car, (thats IGNORANT), and tell me what u think about them. i took them out and put the good ones in and the car had alot better throttle responce and doesnt burn nearly as rich as it was even with the maf bad. that speaks for itself!

 

heres a site to tell u everything those 5224 plugs go in. lt1 isnt on the list. i use only whats suppost to be in the car http://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/re...t.asp?pid=5224 if u punch in the 104 u will see that the camaro and corvette is listed for those plugs.