Cheapest 10 sec. Lt1
#2
Re: Cheapest 10 sec. Lt1
You might want to be a little more descriptive. If you want the cheapest way possible and don't care how you get there. People are gonna just say bolt ons, high stall, weight reduction and a huge shot of spray. Obviously it won't last long like that. If you are talking about reliable that will probably change your answers.
#3
Re: Cheapest 10 sec. Lt1
Well the cheapest way to do it is make the dragstrip shorter and keep the car stock...lol
but I would rebuild the motor with forged pistons, ported heads, good proven cam, Longtube headers, 3500 stall, 3.73 rear gears, drag shocks and springs up fron, airbag in pass side rear spring. Stickies and skinnies, get the tune nailed down (add all the usual accessory bolt ons like cut-out, CAI, 160 thermostat, tune) then add a 150 shot and you should run high tens with traction.
But ifs whats and buts aside nothing is ever cheap and it never runs the way you planned on it. But planning is a good start.
but I would rebuild the motor with forged pistons, ported heads, good proven cam, Longtube headers, 3500 stall, 3.73 rear gears, drag shocks and springs up fron, airbag in pass side rear spring. Stickies and skinnies, get the tune nailed down (add all the usual accessory bolt ons like cut-out, CAI, 160 thermostat, tune) then add a 150 shot and you should run high tens with traction.
But ifs whats and buts aside nothing is ever cheap and it never runs the way you planned on it. But planning is a good start.
#4
Re: Cheapest 10 sec. Lt1
Rebuilt shortblock: forged pistons, stock rods and crank
H/C package from Lloyd (LE2 or LE3)
4k stall converter hooked to a CPT or Pro-built 4L60E
3.73 or 3.42 gears
150 shot
suspension parts, slicks, tuning
and a prayer for the 10-bolt (there are a few living in the 10s right now)
That combo should get you there.
Or substitute the auto for a Street Twin'd M6 with 4.10s in a 12-bolt rear (no way a 10-bolt will live behind a 10-sec six-speed, or at least not for long) and a 200 shot to help make up for a slightly weaker launch.
Talk to "T/A LT1" (or something like that) on this board. He has a 355 LT1 with a 175 shot running in the 10.teens at over 130 with a TH350 and 3500 stall (10-bolt rear). That car is a very good example of a well-tuned LT1 running excellent times.
H/C package from Lloyd (LE2 or LE3)
4k stall converter hooked to a CPT or Pro-built 4L60E
3.73 or 3.42 gears
150 shot
suspension parts, slicks, tuning
and a prayer for the 10-bolt (there are a few living in the 10s right now)
That combo should get you there.
Or substitute the auto for a Street Twin'd M6 with 4.10s in a 12-bolt rear (no way a 10-bolt will live behind a 10-sec six-speed, or at least not for long) and a 200 shot to help make up for a slightly weaker launch.
Talk to "T/A LT1" (or something like that) on this board. He has a 355 LT1 with a 175 shot running in the 10.teens at over 130 with a TH350 and 3500 stall (10-bolt rear). That car is a very good example of a well-tuned LT1 running excellent times.
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