LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

changing spark plug roughly every 500 miles

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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:58 PM
  #1  
wyldcdn's Avatar
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From: Fairhope AL
changing spark plug roughly every 500 miles

Can't figure it out. I have replaced Opti, msd coil, msd spark plug wires, I have ran delco SP's, Autolites, Now using NGK 55's and now stepped into ngk 6's
Have tried gapping at 45 and 50.. Theres no change, the plugs are fouled after roughly 500 miles. Black soot all around the base and tip. If I'm lucky just the electrode will be light colored. Car is driving up the wall to the point that I hate it and want to burn it to the ground for the insurance. Its no joke I really do hate this car very much to the point I'm selling the frickin' thing. Sucks because I have a bunch of dream parts I wanted to install ; but won't til I get this handled. Side note, worn Valve springs casue sp's to soil up like this?
Old May 20, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Have you had it tuned recently? That would be my guess.
Old May 20, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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tuned as in computer tuned? No. All everything I've done for tune is Fuel filter, airfilter, MAP, coil, wires, SP's.

Only thing I can figure is bad vavle springs this time around. The other times the plugs went bad you could tell by a light shudder on tip in if you were in O.D. Now its missing from any rpm at anything past half throttle
gonna snap a pic of one SP I pulled out
Car ran great 'til I ran it down the track, bounced it off the limiter once (6200) and I never ran it again. Buddy drove it home and was nice to it so i have no idea when the problem creeped in. I parked it three days prior, car ran awesome.
Only thing I can figure is we had a rain storm, Opti got wet>? But I have never driven this car is wet weather. I have company truck so it sees maybe 200 miles a week
Old May 20, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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Plugs foul for two reasons - 1) too cold a heat range (appears you had the problem with stock heat range TR55, then went to the colder TR6???), or 2) the engine is running way too rich. Sounds like its running too rich.
Old May 20, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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checking the coolant sensor mounted in the water pump. Its supposed to send signal back to tell how rich?
Dumb question what about the IAC also?
Old May 20, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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if you're wasting that much money on putting all the plugs into it, take it to a dealer and have them scan it. i didnt say to have them fix it, but have them scan it. and see if you can watch the scanner while it's hooked up.

if not, get a printout of what they scanned.

you want to check your map for around 18-21"hg, 02 sensors for 200-800mV, coolant to be around 210, IAT to be at outside temps, and MAF to read about 300 ft. unless you have a cai/exhaust, then you'll likely see 500.
Old May 20, 2007 | 09:04 PM
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awesome firebird, just unreal its beautiful
Old May 21, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wyldcdn
checking the coolant sensor mounted in the water pump. Its supposed to send signal back to tell how rich?
Dumb question what about the IAC also?
The PCM uses coolant temp to set the A/F ratio for cold start, and the cold engine idle speed. If its reading a "false" low temperature, its going to run pig rich.

Originally Posted by Severous01
.....and MAF to read about 300 ft. unless you have a cai/exhaust, then you'll likely see 500.
300 ft.... as in feet? What is that?
Old May 21, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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now pig rich? Are you talking dripping wet plugs? Dripping out the exhaust wet?
Old May 21, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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The BLM's can add 25% excess fuel (move the A/F ratio from 14.7:1 to 11.8:1). The INT's (short term corrections) can add even more fuel. I've seen a sensor that has had oil dripped on the outside cause the engine to just pour raw fuel out of the exhaust. That will damage the engine, the cat(s) and the O2 sensor.
Old May 21, 2007 | 03:14 PM
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i'm not dripping thats for sure
best choice is to scan first, I agree. I'll post my finds as I go
Old May 21, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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I had a coolant temp sensor go bad, it got to the point where the car wouldn't even run when it was cold.
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