As the title says, I will be changing the oil pan gasket in the car and was wondering if anyone has done it before. I talked to Speed Inc about it, and they said to pull all the bolts out of the pan, drop it down enough to get the old gasket out, and then weasle the new one in there. I really dont want to have to pull the motor mounts bolts out, and all that crap to get the pan completely out. IF anyone has any tips or has done it before, please post here.

Brian

ttt

1. Drop all pan bolts, starter and TC dust cover may need to be removed to help to get to some of the oil pan bolts. Oil level sensor may or may not need to be removed to help the pan drop down further.

2. Remove all old gasket and rtv, clean mating surfaces.

3. slide new gasket under the pan pull up one end and then the other. Put RTV on the U shapes of each end.

4. Re-install every thing. Check for leaks.


It shoudl be a 30-60 min job depending on how skilled you are and what tools you are using. hth

Joe

I did this a few months ago without pulling the motor, here's some hints

1. Clean the oil pan and surrounding area before doing anything else. Makes the change much easier plus lessens the chance of getting dirt on the gasket when installing.
2. I removed the y-pipe (Mac headers) not sure if you would need to remove the stock one though.
3. Remove the oil cooler (if your car has one) first.
4. Remove starter
5. Pull all the oil pan bolts off,
6. detach the oil dipstick and pull it out halfway. You don't need to pull it all of the way out, just enough to slip the old gasket out and the new one in.
7. Remove the old gasket and thouroughly clean the mating surfaces. Make sure to get rid of any rtv at the front and rear seal intersections.
8. Install the new gasket by slipping it between the oil pan and k-member. Slip one side of the gasket up over the oil pan flange and into place. Then do the same for the opposite side.
9. Apply rtv to the corners of the front and real seals.
10. bolt the oilpan back on and torque to correct values. Don't overtighten which could cause a leak.

Just listing out things from memory here, feel free to post any questions if you run across any of them during the change.

For what it's worth I changed mine and all I removed was the oil cooler lines and the oil level sensor. I made a long diagonal cut in the gasket on the driver's side center between two pan bolts and installed with Ultra Copper sealant on both sides of the cut. Took less than an hour and hasn't leaked a drop yet. I cleaned the surfaces with MEK first

It's was pretty easy. Tore mine old one taking the timing cover off. I would put a rag or something across the top of the k-member and wipe down the bottom of the pan so you don't get crap on the gasket. I used the one piece felpro. The instructions said to install dry. Hope it don't leak.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...68330640ncxlEM

Jeff D.

Thanks for all the replies guys. After seeing how come of you have changed the gasket, it probably wont take us more than 20-30 min to do the job. The guy that is helping me is very experienced in working with engines, and he just wanted me to find out some of easier ways of changing the gasket other than pulling the pan compeletly off. Well thanks for suggestions and Im sure we will use a few of them.

Brian