Changing to 160 thermostat
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 21
From: Charlotte, NC
Changing to 160 thermostat
If I change out to a 160 degree thermostat, what do I need to reprogram along with it? Do I need to change the fans to turn on at 160?
Last edited by rollinn95z; Nov 5, 2003 at 02:39 PM.
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From: Waynesboro, PA
Not required, but it helps. Also, due to the car running colder, a tune is recommended so you don't kill your gas mileage. I can't remember the exact reasons as to why, but I do remember seeing it.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 21
From: Charlotte, NC
Originally posted by Fastbird93
Not required, but it helps. Also, due to the car running colder, a tune is recommended so you don't kill your gas mileage. I can't remember the exact reasons as to why, but I do remember seeing it.
Not required, but it helps. Also, due to the car running colder, a tune is recommended so you don't kill your gas mileage. I can't remember the exact reasons as to why, but I do remember seeing it.
The only thing I haven't changed yet are the O2s with 105k on them.
Last edited by rollinn95z; Nov 5, 2003 at 02:40 PM.
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
You don't want the fans to turn on at 160degF... the t'stat will never fully open. Maybe turn them on at 185degF and off at 170degF.
You also don't need a "tune". The closed loop feedback from the O2 sensors will allow the PCM to correct the A/F ratio due to any change in the intake charge temperature.
You might consider some additional timing, since it will allow you to take advantage of the cooler head temperatures.
You also don't need a "tune". The closed loop feedback from the O2 sensors will allow the PCM to correct the A/F ratio due to any change in the intake charge temperature.
You might consider some additional timing, since it will allow you to take advantage of the cooler head temperatures.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 21
From: Charlotte, NC
Let me throw this out there. I recently replaced the heater core and the radiator. My waterpump was replaced about two months before that. While replacing the HC and R, I removed the oil cooler assembly. I replaced every other hose and didn't want to mess with replacing the ones on the cooler. While I'm driving down the highway, the temp gauge pegs between the quarter mark and half mark. It didn't do that before I did the HC and R. I did burp the system after I replaced them too. I'm just looking to fix that higher highway temp problem, but I'm trying to hash out whether to just put the oil cooler on with new hozes or change down to the lower thermostat.
Suggestions?
What do you think of the red line water wetter?
Suggestions?
What do you think of the red line water wetter?
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,456
From: sarasota, fl
Originally posted by 12SCNDZ
I'm getting ready to switch back to a 180. My car doesn't like the 160. Water temp never gets above 180 with it.
Frank
I'm getting ready to switch back to a 180. My car doesn't like the 160. Water temp never gets above 180 with it.
Frank
even in the florida heat, my temp never goes over 175 while sitting at a stoplight, and 165 while driving.
im putting a cam in and having it tuned after, so ill see if i can advance timing to compensate for the low temps.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 187
From: ill
Originally posted by got_hp?
i was considering that too
even in the florida heat, my temp never goes over 175 while sitting at a stoplight, and 165 while driving.
im putting a cam in and having it tuned after, so ill see if i can advance timing to compensate for the low temps.
i was considering that too
even in the florida heat, my temp never goes over 175 while sitting at a stoplight, and 165 while driving.
im putting a cam in and having it tuned after, so ill see if i can advance timing to compensate for the low temps.
I have a 160 thermostat and here in the windy city where the temps get hot like,
florida,my car temp will begin to rise, I have to manualy turn the fans on
would like to know why your car runs so cool?
zoso
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