Changed Water Pump now overheats
Changed Water Pump now overheats
Hey guys, just need a little help here...
My water pump started leaking on my road trip back from canada last week, so I replaced it. I hook everything up and bleed the system and stuff, and my car starts overheating. Now, there is no hot air for some reason, and the lines going to the core are cold. Also, the line coming out of the water pump on the top (with the bleeder valve in it) that goes to the heater core, it is hot at the pump, but after the bleeder valve as the hose progresses to the left, it's cold. If I remember correctly that hose should be hot, right? Anyway, I'm going to drain the system and blow out all the lines with an air hose, but does anyone have any suggestions as to what's happened? There are no kinks in any hose or anything that would externally prevent flow, and the heat worked with the leaky water pump. Thanks in advance!
My water pump started leaking on my road trip back from canada last week, so I replaced it. I hook everything up and bleed the system and stuff, and my car starts overheating. Now, there is no hot air for some reason, and the lines going to the core are cold. Also, the line coming out of the water pump on the top (with the bleeder valve in it) that goes to the heater core, it is hot at the pump, but after the bleeder valve as the hose progresses to the left, it's cold. If I remember correctly that hose should be hot, right? Anyway, I'm going to drain the system and blow out all the lines with an air hose, but does anyone have any suggestions as to what's happened? There are no kinks in any hose or anything that would externally prevent flow, and the heat worked with the leaky water pump. Thanks in advance!
Keep the radiator topped off, I usually have to fill it up cold, turn on till it gets "warm" and let it cool to manually pull the coolant into the engine. Don't let it heat up too much, it's not really required. If the pump is dry the sensor is not accurate. Keep repeating until the radiator is "full" and the overflow stick says full cold AFTER letting it completely cool (do your best and then top for a few mornings afterwards). In the past 2 fills it's taken 4-5 sessions of this to get it cool. Just wait 30 - 45 mins before you try to open assuming you don't let it get REALLY HOT, you'll spray it all over for no reason ; ) . Eventually it'll take. Once the fans start turning back on you're on the home stretch. Patience is the key assuming you're not in a gigantic hurry and don't try driving it until it idles under 180 normally.
I recently changed to an electric pump. At first, it was really hot. I thought that maybe the pump was spinning backwards. It wasn't. Required a new thermostat plus the camaro cooling system is kind of difficult to top off and bleed. It required several let it heat up and then cool down with refilling and bleeding the air out before it ran cool.
Originally posted by Zepher
Maybe the coupler isn't on
Maybe the coupler isn't on
my car, running straight water at the moment, with lowered fan temps, 160 thermo, never goes over 190. thats with one bleed session only. heat car up, twist screws, tighten back up and ur done.
All i do is fill the block up with water, and then the radiator. put some in the reseivor (sp), run it, and then add more to the res to get it to the full hot mark.
Originally posted by thewinner
i agree. check to see if the coupler that connects the ds and the waterpump is there.
my car, running straight water at the moment, with lowered fan temps, 160 thermo, never goes over 190. thats with one bleed session only. heat car up, twist screws, tighten back up and ur done.
All i do is fill the block up with water, and then the radiator. put some in the reseivor (sp), run it, and then add more to the res to get it to the full hot mark.
i agree. check to see if the coupler that connects the ds and the waterpump is there.
my car, running straight water at the moment, with lowered fan temps, 160 thermo, never goes over 190. thats with one bleed session only. heat car up, twist screws, tighten back up and ur done.
All i do is fill the block up with water, and then the radiator. put some in the reseivor (sp), run it, and then add more to the res to get it to the full hot mark.
Originally posted by thewinner
eh not too bad of a job. 6 bolts, clean the gaskets off, throw new gaskets on and put bolts back in and ur done.
check to make sure thats the problem first.
eh not too bad of a job. 6 bolts, clean the gaskets off, throw new gaskets on and put bolts back in and ur done.
check to make sure thats the problem first.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Magenta_Hearts
LT1 Based Engine Tech
15
Mar 29, 2017 08:54 PM
Magenta_Hearts
New Member Introduction
4
Mar 25, 2015 10:24 AM



