Changed Plugs to TR5s - Same Problem Still
Changed Plugs to TR5s - Same Problem Still
In my quest to spend as much money as possible, and replace perfectly good
parts, I have managed to change the opti, coil, ICM and spark plugs. All of which
did not solve the problem with the lay down around 5,000 and the jaggies in the
dyno graph. There is no point in spending another $75 to have it dynoed again
since I can feel the same problem with the butt-o-meter.
Damn I hate this...........now I'm thinking valve float. Maybe these beehive springs
are not all what they are built up to be. Considering my installed height of 1.75",
assuming the springs are good, I should have 122# closed pressure and 300#
open pressure on the exhaust and 284# open pressure on the intake. This should
be plenty for my little baby cam.
I could pop in my backup PCM that has a Hypertech tune and see what happens.
Someone else with the same problem did a PCM replacement (among other things)
and it solved his problem, but he was not shure which part did the trick.
Other than the springs, I can't think of anything else. Is it possible for the Comp
Rs to cause a problem like this?
Back to the drawing board. :blah:
parts, I have managed to change the opti, coil, ICM and spark plugs. All of which
did not solve the problem with the lay down around 5,000 and the jaggies in the
dyno graph. There is no point in spending another $75 to have it dynoed again
since I can feel the same problem with the butt-o-meter.
Damn I hate this...........now I'm thinking valve float. Maybe these beehive springs
are not all what they are built up to be. Considering my installed height of 1.75",
assuming the springs are good, I should have 122# closed pressure and 300#
open pressure on the exhaust and 284# open pressure on the intake. This should
be plenty for my little baby cam.
I could pop in my backup PCM that has a Hypertech tune and see what happens.
Someone else with the same problem did a PCM replacement (among other things)
and it solved his problem, but he was not shure which part did the trick.
Other than the springs, I can't think of anything else. Is it possible for the Comp
Rs to cause a problem like this?
Back to the drawing board. :blah:
Re: Changed Plugs to TR5s - Same Problem Still
Don't think it is fuel related? Perhaps your fuel pump is taking a crap and causing it to kinda short you on the fuel in upper RPM's. I am not sure but just a possibility to look into if you haven't already.
Re: Changed Plugs to TR5s - Same Problem Still
i had a similar problem with my car. come to find out i had my fuel pressure way high and there for i was running really rich and my spark plug gap was too big after the mods, so basically the plug couldnt fire cause of all the fuel and that created on hell of a miss. so i replace the plugs ACDelco44LTS and closed the gap from .50 to .35 and my miss was gone. there is a post in this section of the board called "CC305 install problem" check it out maybe it can help your too. that post is about my car.
Re: Changed Plugs to TR5s - Same Problem Still
what was your a/f on the dyno? when valves start to float your power band will usually just start to fall off hard. Also check to make sure you have no knock
Re: Changed Plugs to TR5s - Same Problem Still
Originally Posted by ElectronBlueC3
Perhaps your fuel pump is taking a crap and causing it to kinda short you on the fuel in upper RPM's. I am not sure but just a possibility to look into if you haven't already.
up in the high rpm range so it's an indication that fuel is OK.
Originally Posted by meangrn94ta
i had a similar problem with my car. come to find out i had my fuel pressure way high and there for i was running really rich and my spark plug gap was too big after the mods, so basically the plug couldnt fire cause of all the fuel and that created on hell of a miss. so i replace the plugs ACDelco44LTS and closed the gap from .50 to .35 and my miss was gone. there is a post in this section of the board called "CC305 install problem" check it out maybe it can help your too. that post is about my car.
range but still looks reasonable. I just installed NGK TR5s set at .043" so I
don't think is a gap issue unless the Accel 300+ is hosed. I will probably
disconnect it for another road test just to be sure.
Originally Posted by sleeperz28
what was your a/f on the dyno? when valves start to float your power band will usually just start to fall off hard. Also check to make sure you have no knock
bad. The dyno graph looks all weird between 5k and 5.5k and then cleans up
a bit. If it were float it seems like it would just fall on it's face after a certain
rpm. Here is a dyno graph with a smoothing factor of 5 for comparison:
Dyno w/5 Smoothing
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