Just wondering what kind of power you guys are making with the cc306 (flywheel if possible) and did your factory rods and crank hold up to this? Also, did you have to convert to 4-bolt mains? Thanks

 

The cc306 is a pretty mean cam. I think it is one step too big for a stock engine but the stock rods and crank will be fine. There is no need for 4 bolt mains either, I spin mine to 6800 and have been for a while now. You will need to get a custom tune for the cam, and you will need some 4.10's with about a 3600 stall or higher in my opinion. A hydra-rev wouldn't be a bad idea either. I'll bet with headers and appropriate bolt-ons, 350-360 RWHP is attainable with a manual and 340-350 with an automatic. This is assuming that your engine is basically stock.

 

My little brother just got done rebuilding his stock 350 due to spinning the cc306 to where it likes to be. 6250 - 6600 rpms. I say you are asking for trouble, dont say no one warned you when she goes boom
His dynoed 351rwhp cam, headers, 4.10's, M6 tranny. The cam is a monster though. If I was looking for a hydro. cam that would be my choice.
Steve

 

I would have every intention of rebuilding the engine before throwing a cam in and doing head work. My concern was how adequate the factory rods and crank are for the increased power. Thanks

 

My car's had a 306 since April on stock shortblock, no problems yet. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.

 

I thought stock bottom end was good for 500fwhp. The only bad thing is the constant high rpm's. But a lot of people rev to 6800 all day with cc306 and no problems. Also if you have high miles might be good idea to change cam bearings.

 

Its hit or miss with some people and high revs.

I made 335 rwhp and 350tq with 15.0 A/F. Hoping for a good even 350 when I go back.

 

I am making 345 rwhp with the 1.6rr, stock bottom end, headers, open intake, and custom tuning. All of this on stock heads with nothing more than a valve job and bigger springs.

 

If you are concerned about the higher rpms required for the 306, then get the 503. It will make more power than the 306 up until about 5500. Even then the 306 is probably worth only 10-12 hp on top. I know someone who has a 503 and a 212/218 cam for sale.

 

I spin mine to 6200 shifts and the #'s are in the sig

 

I ran a stock shortblock cc306 combo for a couple years a few years back with my a4 95 TA vert . A friend of mine also ran nearly the same combo in his 95 formy with a 6 speed . You can make alot of power with this cam NA if your willing to give it what it wants . We both had stock shortblocks , LT4 intakes and stg 3 LT4 heads , hyra-rev kits . He had a mcloed clutch and 4.30 gears and I had a VERY mismatched 3.73 gear and 3200 stall ...when I launched it felt like a turd until 4500 rpm or so . No dyno's for either car , but both were making some good a$$ power with the ET's we were getting . His best was a 11.21@122(34xx lbs) and the best I got outa mine was a 11.69@118(3780 lbs) . I had a full manual valve body 700r4 and shifted at 6900 rpms . Anything lower would be slower down the 1/4 .

I wouldnt do this cam again in a street car that had a A4 and was gonna be driven alot . Pending what your tolerance levels are . To make my auto car use the best of that cam I shoulda been running a 4.10 gear and had a 4500 stall . Thats cool for cruising , but itd be a mess of a daily driver . The 6 speed car on the other hand , was a great daily driven car . Even with the 4.30's I remember rpms on the highway being lower than 2K

Decide how you want to use your car , what your willing to live with and what rpm range you wanna be in . If you car is daily driver I would use a cam that makes most of its power in the 2500-6200 rpm range

JMO ....lol , Im sure there million different views on this cam

 

I couldn't agree more.

 

If the motor is in good shape (good oil pressure around 55+psi at WOT, no sludge), you'll be fine with a CC306 or even the GM 847 cam. Also, the best 2 oils to run are Castrol German Syntec 0W30. You can tell this from the other kind by color of the viscosity label. If it's red, it's the German Syntec, if it's yellow, it's not the good kind. If this isn't available, the other oil that is a good choice is Mobil 1 0W40.

Just some helpful tips. Remember, we are working with a Chevy smallblock. These things are very tough and have proven to hold even with over 100k miles and seeing 7000 rpms on a regular basis. Just make sure you get a good tune with NO lean spots.

Jason