Bow Tie Man,

I would get with a cam guy and tell them your budget and let them know what kinda RPM you are wanting to shift at.

You can turn 6200 RPM pretty often and have no problems with pretty inexpensive parts and make descent power.

If you wanna turn 6500 RPM, you will need to spend more $$$ on springs, etc to make sure and not have any problems.

If you wanna turn ANYTHING over that, you will need quite a bit more $$$ on light valve trane parts, springs, GOOD pushrods, GOOD rockers, GOOD lifters, etc. and to get the most from this type of cam you would also need to make sure and have GOOD headers, GOOD exhaust, GOOD tuning, etc, etc.

If you really cant afford to get ALL of the parts to do it right, it is best to go more conservativ on cam selection. You will be alot happier in the end. It would make NO sense to get a cam that turns pst 6500 RPM if you have 1 5/8 shorty headers, crummy exhaust system, stock lifters, stock push rods, etc, etc or if you have no way of actually getting it properly tuned. You would be MUCH happier with something that works with all of the parts that you do have and will work with valve trane compoinents that you CAN afford and work with whatever tuning you are able to get done.

Once you know what RPM you feel safe taking the engine to, the next step would be knowing what tuning ability you have and what kinda parts you can afford to go along with it to make it work right. Most people are better off with a milder cam with all of the matching components and properly tuned as opposed to a more radical cam with out all of the right complimenting parts, valve trane pieces and proper tuning.

They will also need to know your gear ratio, stall size, weight, driving style, emissions, and other OBVIOUS things alot of people overlook the fact the you need alot more things to make the cam work and budget of valve trane parts, complimenting mods and tuning ability are VERY important as well.

Most cam "gurus" will agree, designing a BAD *** cam that makes killer HP #'s and TQ is the easy part. The tough part is getting the right cam for each customers car that makes power where they want/need it and getting the customer to buy all of the BAD *** valve trane components to last, correct headers, correct TB, correct injectors and spending the time and $$$ to get it properly tuned. This explains why it is better to get a slightly milder cam with EVERYTHING needed to work properly as opposed to a cam that "could" make more power but due to the rest of the combiantion and tuning, doesn't make as much power.

Get with a cam grinder that you trust and they will guide you through what you need/want and what you can actually afford to do right. There is more to cam selection than most people realize. I am actually pretty smart on cam selection. I am so smart about cam selection that I do not attempt to design my own and pay other "more knowledgeable" people to do this part for me. I do not pocket much $$$ doing this but I offer a better product and that is worth more than the few $$$ I would make by designing them myself.

Lloyd Elliott
NightTrain66

 

I also noticed that. It seems that most EX grinds tend to peak then fall off really quick. I'm looking forward to getting a nice curve like that (only higher ) soon.

 

My problem is I dont know anyone who custom grinds cams?? I've seen the 306 and the 847 work for other people on this board and fbody.com that have pretty much the same mods as me and they get between 350-365 rwhp. which isn't great power but its definately more than I have now. I only plan on running the car for whats left of the good weather this year and next summer the following winter I will definately get the heads done and if I got some extra money saved up then maybe even a fresh short block. MY question is if there are any cam grinders or anyone who knows of a cam that will work for me other than these two than just speak up!! I'm going to be putting the 1-3/4 longtubes, x pipe and bullets on at the same time as the cam change so the exhaust isn't a problem. I have morroso cai, ported maf, and an air foil for now I think the stock throttle body and injectors should be good for the horsepower I'm trying to attain for now. I probably will switch my 1.5 roller rockers to 1.6's during the swap and If I find a good deal on comp r lifters, and some pushrods then hopefully that's all I'll have to change. All suggestions still welcome since I haven't ordered any parts yet. thanks, for all the replies so far though I love good information.

 

I am considering a set-up nearly identical to yours but need a bit more reassurance on the 306 cam. I drive 30 miles each way to work everyday and am a bit worried about sitting in traffic with my 6 speed and a big? cam. What has been your experience with stop and go freeway traffic and the 306. Any suggestions?

 

Bowtie,

Jon's goal was to have a upgradeable stock bottom end setup. He was looking at the 847 and 306 cams so that's what we worked around and came up with something that will work for him and get him the power he wanted. He wanted to do a valvetrain, then ported heads then probably a intake manifold to get the most out of the motor. Now going to a 383 you would be better off having a set of heads and a cam made for the 383 and building it all as a complete motor. You might want to look up his BRE cam results thread here and read a little of that. His cam package was not cheap but it was done the correct way so that it's bullet proof and delivers lots of power in the RPM bad where he uses the motor.

10's is not the easiest thing to do, and a throw together 383 is usually not going to cut it. Ported aftermarket heads and a well thought out motor is about the only way you are going to get the car moving that fast NA.

Bret

 

Here is my Joe Overton graph:
http://www3.telus.net/bunker/DSCN00556.jpg

The car blew a header gasket after the run cuz of a loose header bolt so I couldn't tune it, it was rich 11.9-12.0 AF all the way through the RPM range, I'm thinking there is another 15-20rwhp in the thing.

Also this is with 4.10 gears & ZR1 wheels so no tricks, & my valve train is very heavy. I have steel retainers & on top of that I added lash caps which added to the weight LOL.

Matt.

 

Shoot Bret (SStrokerAce above) an email. Tell him your goals and budget. That's what I did...and I'm glad I did so. Here's the thread where I describe the details of my set-up: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259094

Those are great numbers, bunker! Be sure to post after you get all the issues worked out--should be pretty impressive.

 

It will be a while before I get to do the 383. Possibly I will be able to build a fully forged 383 with monster heads and a custom cam. Only time will tell, but for now I'm just wanting an affordable way to put my car into the 12's which with the new exhaust it's possible its already in the high 12's but I want to be sure it's dipped well into the 12's. Around here noone on the street will beat me if I'm going that fast. I even possibly thought of getting about 150 shot of nitrous along with the cam with it all set up right and the bottom end holds I could see good 11 second runs. I'm going to go ahead and get the long tubes put on with the true duals and give this post a couple more weeks and me researching then I'll decide the cam. As long as I reach my goal for now I could always sell the cam when I have the money to do the heads and go ahead with the le2 package, I wouldn't be out much that way. I'm surprised how good used cams sell but I guess roller cams dont get hurt that much from running. I finally got some pictures of my car and I would like to possibly put at least one of them in my sig. or someway get them on the internet where you guys can see it. If anyone can help me with that it would be great. thanks,