Car Went Nuts then Died!! HELP!!
Car Went Nuts then Died!! HELP!!

Ok I have been having a very consistant problem with my car idling high when I come to a stop sign. if I rev the engine quickly it would go back to the proper idle. If I let it sit it trims off fuel until it throws a lean fuel condition engine light. Drive away light ok.. Problem is annoying and I wish the idle just went back down to 800 right away instantly with no hesitation or provokation...
On my way to my friends house the car starts idling very high then dipping very low over and over then it would die! it did this for about 20 minutes of driving and would die if I came to a stop and it start making an insane hissing almost grinding sound andsounded like water running instead of beats of the cylinders. It was making a crazy spinning sound and I thought it was my transmission. I wasn't giving it gas and it kept idling strangly like tons of extra gas was present. I smelled gas and heard a lot of popping of fuel in the exhaust. I had it kind of going but the problem was getitng worse. I Revved it real high one last time and then it sputtered to a stop although it was running semi smooth but with very little power. Now the engine just cranks and cranks and sounds like a good healthy start is about to happen but nothing.. it is almost like my coil isn't connected so it just winds and winds... Anyone ever have this happen or is this a very common case of a common problem.. I thought it might be my opti.... Is this a blown up opti problem? My coil is pretty new msd blaster and msd 6al, all connections are nice and new wires to opti, old opti... Figured it was either this of the fuel pump so what is the best way to test this? I have a new waterpump, timing chain and harmonic balancer ready to go over a new opti. Found opti for about $140 at autozone with a lifetime warranty. not a bad deal and I want to do it but not unless I have an obvious problem. Thanks for any help guys.
i have a fuel pressure gauge. i will check to see if the pressure is ok. if the pump is blown will it have very little pressure?? How can I tell although I dont think it is the fual pump.. could be. I will check my scanmaster for codes and see if there are any for shorted icms and things like that. I know the icm was replaced once before and so was the coil, all wires are new and only old part is opti. ..
Well I am going to do some quick testing. if I can't determine anything... i will be looking for somone to take a look at it with a proper scan cable and software.. if you want to make a few bux and hang out with the beast to see why he isn't starting... :-P I welcome you. I am also a personal trainer so if you would like a couple training sessions to learn how to take care of yourself better I also do that
aftermarket top of the line holly/nos 58mm with computer tune to match. adjusted idle and everything was fine with the tb and iac valve. I have a scanmaster and it never acted strange before but I might just replace it for peace of mind. What is the part number for this part?
Used my scan master to retreive the trouble codes. Here they are:
16 - Distributor Ignition System (Low Resolution Pulse)
36 - Distributor Ignition System (Faulty high Resolution Pulse or Extra Low resolution Pulse Detected)
--ongoing problem with these codes they aer thrown when car stumbles while idling for about 5 minutes then goes into the other loop computer mode and trims off fuel or go's away when i drive. never was right...
44 - Bank 1 Left heated oxygen sensor lean condition detected
64 - Bank 2 right heated oxygen sensor lean condition detected
---
33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High, low vacuume)
51 - EEPROM Programming Error
91 - Skip Shift Lamp Circuit
I am not surprised to see the distributor codes. BAD OPTI RIGHT???
The EEPROM error scares me. What is that?? I had my tuning done by pcmforless and the car wairing is perfect. I have been having a very consistant problem with the car idling too high when coing to a stop light and if I TAP the gas it would cut down to about 800-900 rpms and I developed the habit of just revving the engine lightly when coming to a stop this SUCKS and the car will also idle weird until it throws the lean condition codes and then would idle differently but better. I Dont know what the heck is wrong wiht the MAP sensor. never had this problem before and why would all this stuff go at once?? the shift lamp should be removed because there is no skipshift anyway. what do you guys think?
16 - Distributor Ignition System (Low Resolution Pulse)
36 - Distributor Ignition System (Faulty high Resolution Pulse or Extra Low resolution Pulse Detected)
--ongoing problem with these codes they aer thrown when car stumbles while idling for about 5 minutes then goes into the other loop computer mode and trims off fuel or go's away when i drive. never was right...
44 - Bank 1 Left heated oxygen sensor lean condition detected
64 - Bank 2 right heated oxygen sensor lean condition detected
---
33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High, low vacuume)
51 - EEPROM Programming Error
91 - Skip Shift Lamp Circuit
I am not surprised to see the distributor codes. BAD OPTI RIGHT???
The EEPROM error scares me. What is that?? I had my tuning done by pcmforless and the car wairing is perfect. I have been having a very consistant problem with the car idling too high when coing to a stop light and if I TAP the gas it would cut down to about 800-900 rpms and I developed the habit of just revving the engine lightly when coming to a stop this SUCKS and the car will also idle weird until it throws the lean condition codes and then would idle differently but better. I Dont know what the heck is wrong wiht the MAP sensor. never had this problem before and why would all this stuff go at once?? the shift lamp should be removed because there is no skipshift anyway. what do you guys think?
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squarehead
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
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Nov 21, 2014 08:02 PM



