lillbush5555

I have been having this problem for a little while now but it is getting worse everyday. I have a 96 TA with cc306, lifters, rockers, intake, headers, exhaust.

When i strat driving around everything is fine but when i pull up to a stop sign/light and push the clutch in the car tries to die, RMP's drop to around 4-500 and sits there then comes back. It used to be I could turn the car off and let it sit a few seconds restart it and it would be fine, Now I try that and it wont restart. Just get that rummm rummm rummm. It has also started to do it when I start the car up first thing in the morning I start it resse to around 1500 then drops right away and comes back to 1k I have no clue what the probem is I just changed, plugs, wires, fuel filter and opti..And it is still doing it. What could be wrong Fuel pump??

thanks
matt

Need4Camaro

Try to get me some gauge readings, I've had simular problems aswell

I'll start with what I've experienced with stallings on my dad's Z...

1st: As newbish as this may sound, Make sure you're putting 93 Octane in it...these car's a very picky when it comes to fuel...

2nd: If you've recently disconnected the intake, make sure it's fully locked onto the throttle body... I've had a simular problem due to this where the car would hesitate at speeds over 45 and run like crap at a dead stop....

3rd: Sparkplugs... check those and replace if nessicary...

4th: Check your oil preasure, we had a simular problem where the car ran crappy at a deadstop and sluggish on accelerations when it ran hot, we were getting less than a quarter of preasure at 45 MPH and around Half at full throttle... If your preasure is low, buy a draining compound and poor it in the old oil, let engine run for about 5 mins just at idle, stop and drain oil and continue with oil change... This solved our Z's low oil preasure problem...

5th: Check air filters, make sure intake is not clogged...

6th: It may be tune up time, you also may need new O2 sensors, I've heard simular cases where the O2 sensors failed and the car eventually just quits...

7th: Fuel injectors may require cleaning, put some injector cleaner in there with a full tank and run her to just about dry...

8th: All else fails, your pump just may be going bad...

I hope this helps...
sorry if it doesn't

good luck man...

slopokrodrigez

Think your EGR is sticking. Check to see when the car is idling good. Disconnect the vac line to the EGR and plug it. Take it for a ride with line plugged and see what happens.

Also the biggest contributor to a screwy idle is the Idle Air Control motor. Be sure it is clean and moving well. Once I cleaned and reseated mine in the truck, it idled like glass.

Check the TPS, or more correctly change the TPS. They wear out after a few years since every time you push the throttle, a wiper rubs against the little wires inside.

lillbush5555

It isnt the EGR...I know this cuz well....I dont have 1. Also I disconnected the battery today did a little work on it reconnected the battery started it and it ran fine for the first 5-10 mins then the problem came back...this 1 has me stumped what else can I do...I also cleaned that sensor under the throttle body dont remember the name but it is under the TB.

thanks
matt

slopokrodrigez

Well it's time to scan it for inputs to the PCM. Sounds like an issue when you go into closed loop. Look at a couple of things in particular. The IAC counts and the engine temp sensor. See what they are as the car warms up and see if the problem shows up when the car goes into closed loop.

fozziez28

Are you getting an ses light. My car was doing the same thing, i have an auto though. It was the maf sensor. I would give that a shot. Pick up a cheap used one and you can see if that will fix it. Thanks, Michael