Replaced my opti, and since than my car has been getting really hot

Noticed that all of the lines get warm, except the bottom one that goes to the thermostat housing.

so, thought my car was overheating due to my thermostat at first....replaced it with a 160*.

Then tested my stocker...it opened up anyways.

Then thought it was how i had my steam line tied in.....changed that to how its recommended....still doing it

When i put the waterpump back on after the opti, i made sure that the coupler was on there and it went on without a problem.

What else could it be? Ive tried bleeding my system out by jacking up the front of the car and having the radiator cap off, and that doesnt seem to be working.

Also, the hose going from the bottom of the radiator to the thermostat housing still does not have coolant in it.....

Any other ideas?

 

Sounds like the pump may not be turning for some reason.

 

seawolf, thats what im thinking, but the coupler is on there and everything, and idk why it wouldnt be good?

 

Only way to find out may be to take that front cover off the wp and crank the motor over with the fuel disconnected.

 

You probably either have air in the cooling system or a bad stat. You should be able to feel the coolant flowing by holding onto the lower radiator hose with the engine running.

 

well, the lower hose that goes from thermostat housing to the radiator is just full of air, cant get it out.

Also, cant possibly be the thermostat, dont run one


so, okay
the hose from the radiator to the thermostat housing is the engine "inlet"
So, my problem is that the hose is full of air....no coolant. Guess i will jack the front of the car up even higher, and fill that hose full of coolant. Then i will try from there.


Im pretty sure the water pump is working, because the "outlet" hose gets hot.

So, i think at this point, its just air in the system somewhere.

Opinions?

 

I would go to autozone and use their coolant system pressure checker. Pressurize the system to 20psi and look all over for leaks(yes you must get underneath LOL). Also check to make sure the system does not bleed off pressure. LT1's will boil very quickly with just a pinhole that bleeds the pressure when hot.

 

have you bled the system by opening the two bleeder screws? they are copper, one is i think on the thermostat and the other is on one of the hoses, on mine if i don't bleed those (open them once the car gets to about 160 or so) it will over heat. you should see the air come out. anybody else do this?

 

well;, i got it fixed, and it was kind of a stupid thing on my part.

When i took it off to do my opti swap, i didnt put any coolant directly into the waterpump, so, it was trying to spin air cause there was a giant airbubble in it.

Took the thermostat housing off, put some coolant in it, problem solved.

Drove about 6 miles after letting it run for 10 minutes or so, and the highest it got was around 180

 

Glad you found it. Had a buddy was doing all kinds of things to get gis LT to quit overheating, he had a shop put in stat, w/p and many flushings then finall the went to replace the rad and there was a shopping bag in between the condensor and rad.

 

I never heard of the need to put coolant into the WP I replaced WPs on a variety of vehicles, including my LT1 and never had to do that. As pro94lt mentions above you just need to use the bleeder screws to 'burp' the system. Removing the rad cap works on most vehicles, but is not so effective on LT1s.

I am glad you got it working.

 

i tried the bleeder screws, had front of the car up, and and cap off, nothing worked.

It was just a giant airpocket in the inlet hose and in the waterpump, once i got coolant in the waterpump, it bled the stuff out of the inlet hose.

 

his WP is higher...with a aftermarket radiator for a turbo set-up....so with the air up that high you would never get it out from the bleeder.