Trust me! ENGINE MOUNTS!! Replace them then you will see that's the problem, from the start!

 

By the way, I had 12 pack of Coronas. No Damn Way its something else.

 

I buy from RockAuto all the time -- never any trouble.

 

Lol, okay okay man, I'll replace them. Gonna buy them tonight or tomorrow!

Jake:
Great, I'll get from them, then.

 

If you have your own a frame you can do it quick if not man you would be better off going to a shop. Those mounts could definately cause that. And like someone else stated never trust a dealers word ive been screwed too many times so i check thier work whenever i get work done to my car. It sounded like a misfire to me also which doesnt necessarily mean its the spark plug being corroded or a bad connection from the plug wire to the plug itself or even a nick or a cut on the plug wire causing it to ground out when making contact with the block. It could be and opti problem you should make sure to check you codes and see if you have any codes popping up. Let me know the code if you have one i have a code book. Good luck and be sure to check the little things rather than diving way in over your head. Let me know if you need any info on any of the stuff ive addressed.

 

Sounds good. I appreciate it Slick. Let me pull a code and see if it's misfiring. The gaskets, plugs, plug wires, distributor, etc were all just redone, so I am pretty sure it's not a misfire in my opinion, but it could be I suppose. At this point, the engine mounts do need replacing and I will probably start with that and a code read.

One thing though:
This is the engine mount:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...035908k1015560

This is the rubber mount that goes inside the frame of the previous link:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...&PARTNER=gbase

Okay so which one do I buy? The ES looks like just rubber, no metal mounts. Would it be better to get the more complete mounts from Rock Auto? Help!

 

You won't get a code for misfiring..the OBD-1 computer doesn't have that capability. I also doubt it's the motor mounts but some seem to think that's all it can be. I still believe it's a runnability issue and would do a thorough invewtigation before spending money and time on mounts. By the way, the urethane mounts are firmer than stock and tend to transmit more vibration to the body..not less.

Good luck!

 

with the poly mounts you will have to reuse your original caseings OR find a set of old motor mounts to take the caseings off those. Then you put them around your poly mounts. I'd call rock auto to make sure there mounts come with the caseings intact. I honestly have never priced out stock mounts so idk if they come with them or not.

Here is a write up with pics that might help.(not my write up)

http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staf...otormount.html

 

Okay, yeah the casings is what I'm after, too. Might as well do both.

BW: I completely understand. I'm just doing the motor mounts because I already know they're old and going bad.

I forgot about that, dangit. How can I test for misfires, etc with my 95 z28, then? Thanks!

 

I hope you find the problem I will keep digging for some answers

 

Sounds good. Thanks!

 

Should really tackle the mount replacement.

 

Hate to awaken an old thread, but I have a new development to the situation. I was just about to buy motor mounts, when I discovered something strange about my shake problem. It ONLY happens in cold weather. Almost never in warm weather. If I drive from a warm garage into cold weather my engine will start shaking within 1-2 minutes. If it's above 60 degrees, I almost never get any shake at all. It's a new clue in grand scheme of things, but here's what I'm thinking:

1. Dangalla mentioned engine shake can be caused by an ECT (what is an ect?).
2. Cold weather affecting a wire (I still need to replace that taped plug wire, damm**).
3. Something with the intake.

What do you all think?

 

You have a taped spark plug wire? Um, fix that first...

It's still not the motor mounts.....

I'd recommend you find someone with a scanner to help. You need to know what the sensors that have anything to do with temperature are reading. You can do it yourself with the right cable, a laptop and datamaster softwear.....

Anyway, if you can figure out ehat the sensors are telling the PCm you canb fix this issue..

 

that is not what i said

someone else said that an ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) could cause a car to run bad when it warms up - i responded saying that a ECT will usually cause an issue when cold (like a cold start)

if the car was missing on a cold start it could shake, but the root cause is that the ECT is giving a bad reading that is (usually) making the engine really rich - alot of times a car will just not start when the ect is bad

like stated above i really think you need to fix that wire before you do anything else - there is a very good chance that this is causing your problem. at that point if it is still not fixed then we need to start getting some readings with a scanner or or some sort of data logging software and cable