Car is not where it should be
#1
Car is not where it should be
First off, Please don't tell me how you ran the same times I did with only a CAI or something becasue that won't help me at all but make me despise my car a little more.
I got my car dynoed and the end result was 270 @5300, 287@4400. Mods are in sig.
The real big problem is the car is cammed (sounds like hotcam) and at the tune, they said the car has a stall converter( feels like a 3200-34000 they said.)
My best time so far was a 13.5@101 with a 2.0 60'. I got that time once and most of my times range from 13.6-13.9 @ 98-101.
Should I shift earlier( when I got 13.5, I shifted at 6,0000)? Do I need suspension? The tuner said gears could net me 2/10th's, but I wannna get 12's. I can't afford to buy new heads, a bigger cam, or a LS1 car. I did see white smoke come out of the exhasut on the dyno, but as the tuner changed things, it didn't come out as much, if at all.( It was running a little lean at WOT.) Anyone got any ideas of how to get to the 12's or why my car won't run any better?
I got my car dynoed and the end result was 270 @5300, 287@4400. Mods are in sig.
The real big problem is the car is cammed (sounds like hotcam) and at the tune, they said the car has a stall converter( feels like a 3200-34000 they said.)
My best time so far was a 13.5@101 with a 2.0 60'. I got that time once and most of my times range from 13.6-13.9 @ 98-101.
Should I shift earlier( when I got 13.5, I shifted at 6,0000)? Do I need suspension? The tuner said gears could net me 2/10th's, but I wannna get 12's. I can't afford to buy new heads, a bigger cam, or a LS1 car. I did see white smoke come out of the exhasut on the dyno, but as the tuner changed things, it didn't come out as much, if at all.( It was running a little lean at WOT.) Anyone got any ideas of how to get to the 12's or why my car won't run any better?
#2
damn dude sounds like your head gasket might have a slight leak based on the exhaust color your describing. Does it do that more on a cold start?
Also are you pulling any codes?
I would scan the car with datamaster or some dignostic, and let somebody evaluate the file.
What are the specs on the cam that was put in?
Your right about your cars output being under par if indeed the car is cammed.
I would also consider a tune from maybe somebody different, to see if they can net you more horse, but you have to know your cam specs for that.
Also are you pulling any codes?
I would scan the car with datamaster or some dignostic, and let somebody evaluate the file.
What are the specs on the cam that was put in?
Your right about your cars output being under par if indeed the car is cammed.
I would also consider a tune from maybe somebody different, to see if they can net you more horse, but you have to know your cam specs for that.
#3
To start out your 60's are hurting you, I think it goes basically for every 1/10th you shave on the 60' you shave 2/10ths on the big end up to a certain point I would guess but if you could cut a 1.7 60' that would put you roughly at a 12.9 going from your 13.5. Also gears will deffinately help you as well as a set of long tube headers. Suspension will deffinately help you with the traction side of it.
Also one tip don't try to shift the auto from what I have heard. If you need to have the computer programed for your shift points it should be done and I have read that manually shifting an auto trans thats not built for it (manual valve body) will hurt the internals
Also one tip don't try to shift the auto from what I have heard. If you need to have the computer programed for your shift points it should be done and I have read that manually shifting an auto trans thats not built for it (manual valve body) will hurt the internals
#5
How do you know your car is Cammed other than what your dyno guy thinks?
If i recall your other post, someone had a dyno graph posted of a stock cam car which peaked and hit the same HP/TQ points as yours.
You need to A) Determine for sure if your car is cammed or not and B) Figure out your stall.. You may not know the stall speed but you can figure out if it's a 9" converter and possibly what brand. And if you know the brand you may find a stamping on it with enough info to determine exactly what kind of stall it is.
Say that your assumption is wrong for A, your car is driving absolutly perfectly then.
If your car IS cammed, your car has something very wrong with it. It seems like its something wrong enough you would notice it everywhere for only making that much HP.. (assuming your tune is OK).
Also, you should at LEAST have a higher MPH if it was just your launch that was the problem (again assuming you HAVE a cam).
If you dont have that cam, your MPH is fine, your ET is fine, your dyno makes sense, and the car would drive fine normally. It just sounds like all things point to - not cammed.
If i recall your other post, someone had a dyno graph posted of a stock cam car which peaked and hit the same HP/TQ points as yours.
You need to A) Determine for sure if your car is cammed or not and B) Figure out your stall.. You may not know the stall speed but you can figure out if it's a 9" converter and possibly what brand. And if you know the brand you may find a stamping on it with enough info to determine exactly what kind of stall it is.
Say that your assumption is wrong for A, your car is driving absolutly perfectly then.
If your car IS cammed, your car has something very wrong with it. It seems like its something wrong enough you would notice it everywhere for only making that much HP.. (assuming your tune is OK).
Also, you should at LEAST have a higher MPH if it was just your launch that was the problem (again assuming you HAVE a cam).
If you dont have that cam, your MPH is fine, your ET is fine, your dyno makes sense, and the car would drive fine normally. It just sounds like all things point to - not cammed.
Last edited by TobyZ28; 04-23-2007 at 05:39 PM.
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