LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Car goes nuts when it goes into closed loop, 02's? look at my data logs

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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #16  
Godly96_SS_Here's Avatar
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From: Portland, Oregon
A little off the subject but where would i find new o2's and how much do they run? thats if they need to be replaced. I am having the same problems that Critter is.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 04:43 PM
  #17  
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Shoebox has the part # for the correct AC/Delco sensors, and a recommended source:

http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 04:43 PM
  #18  
Critter's Avatar
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From: fort worth/burleson Tx
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Yes, within maybe 20mV of each other.

e-mail me the log. Can not be a .zip file. Show your screen name and the words "data log" in the topic. Not sure when I can get to look at it, but I'll try.
I sent it via email, it was a .uni file. Thank you.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:10 PM
  #19  
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From: fort worth/burleson Tx
also i got to thinking, i put ultra copper on my header gaskets. Both sides, let it cure for a day before i started the car. I have never had a header leak, but could the ultra copper be part of this problem? I was under the understanding that this was designed for exhaust gaskets.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:11 PM
  #20  
Godly96_SS_Here's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
Shoebox has the part # for the correct AC/Delco sensors, and a recommended source:

http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason

Thank you Very much, my o2 is cheap!!
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:39 PM
  #21  
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If you put to much ultra copper on the gasket and it came loose it could have hurt the sensors but probably went to the cat and stayed there. Look at it this way, if you buy the sensors and they were not the problem then you have a spare and the ability to swap them out if you ever suspect them to be bad. Sounds like one O2 works a little better than the other but both sound like there not working good enough to be of any help.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:34 PM
  #22  
Critter's Avatar
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Cat lol, i took that thing off years ago, i drive a z28 you think i'm worried about the ozone layer?
Old Mar 20, 2008 | 12:49 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Critter
Cat lol, i took that thing off years ago, i drive a z28 you think i'm worried about the ozone layer?
Old Mar 20, 2008 | 04:54 AM
  #24  
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To test the wiring to the O2s, look at the signal for each O2 while they are connected and in closed loop. Look for a side (hopefully not both) that is not swinging from say near 100 to 900 mv. Then disconnect the side with a problem and see if the voltage is now staying around 450mv. If the signal was near 450 before and after you disconnected the wiring, you have a break in the wiring.

If the signal was staying high even after you disconnected the O2, there are wires touching each other. And if it stays low, there are wires shorted to ground.

The next thing you can do is short the signal wires to ground to see if the readings go low. If not, like mine did, you have a definite break in the wiring. Mine was bad were it goes down the passenger inner fender and was over wrapped with foil. The wires were fried to a crisp. Incidentally, the wires for the starter and the KS were in that bundle.

To force the signal low after disconnecting the O2s, simply put a jumper from the black wire, to the tan wire and the purple wire. If the numbers stay near 450, you know you have a break in a wire.
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