Hood_Lum

First a little history..
The car was running great before it died on me.
Gave me codes 16 and 41.
Changed the opti and it started running again but feeling like a v6.
It's really smooth though. Checked it with freescan and got a code 49 or 48. Something about a MAF sensor circuit. I cleared it and it hasn't come back yet. I did a lamp test with the pink wire to the ground wire and the light comes on. I'm getting 5V when I test the yellow wire to ground. Could I coincidentally have a bad MAF sensor right after my opti swap? Keep in mind it was running strong before the opti took a crap on me.

Hood_Lum

Here's some numbers from freescan if it'll help:

IAC Position 13
MAP .332
Barometer 1.022
Both O2s are fluctuating
Coolant temp 81* C
Mass Air temp 31* C
spark advance 26.0
Knock count 782
Air Flow 9
Integrator L 125
Integrator R 125
Crank Sensors 0
BLM contents 121
BLM cell # 16

Guest47904

Knock count is way off. Try disconnecting it and putting a resistor across the connector.

Injuneer

No. Knock count (not knock retard) is not way off. Knock count is a "cumulative" field. Starts at "0" and increases whenever the PCM CALCULATES that there MAY be an operating condition that MAY cause knock retard. The PCM continues to add knock counts, increasing the number stored in the field, until it reaches the maximum capacity of the field (64,000?), then resets to "0" and starts all over again. It isn't unusual to see the knock count increment by 2,000-3,000 counts at startup. Has no affect on the engine.

The PCM does not respond to incrementing knock counts with knock retard until the PCM has recently responded to the knock sensor by using knock retard.

Do not add a resistor.

As far as the MAF, you need 12V on the pink wire, and 5V on the yellow wire (as low as 4.3V when its running). Is it possible you didn't fully seat the connector, or that you damaged the pins when you were working on the Opti? Since you have a 96, but are quoting 2-digit DTC codes, can we a$$ume you have an OBD-I conversion?

Hood_Lum

You are correct. Been running the obd-1 conversion since it was popular years ago.

Checked the pins and they look good. Made sure it was fully seated as well.
Moved the wires around to make sure there was enough slack and not grounding out as well.

Hood_Lum

I drove to work with the freescan hooked up today and didn't get the MAF trouble code. Which reminded me, I started the car right after I hooked up the opti and waterpump to make sure it will start up before putting everything back together. That's probably where I got the code.

Now, I'm really at a lost. What should I look for now? If the plug wires are on wrong then won't the idle be rough?

Injuneer

Did DTC 41 ever come back? Did you check the ICM before replacing the Opti?

I would think swapping a couple plug wires would make it run very rough. It would also make it feel like it was running on 6 cylinders.

Hood_Lum

DTC 41 never came back. Swapped out the ICM before changing the opti.
The car was still dying after it got warm with the new ICM so I kept the old ICM and returned the new one.

Hood_Lum

The opti has to be in the right position in order to sit flush right? Am I correct to believe the dowel in any other position besides the square hole and opti will not go on all the way?

Injuneer

The Opti will assemble with the dowel pin in any of the 3 holes - not supposed to, but it does. But if you had it in the wrong hole on the vented version, the engine would be 120-cam degrees (240-crank degrees) off, and would barely run, if at all.

Hood_Lum

So since it's running it must be in the right hole.
I was more worried it would fit if it was in the bigger round circle indentations.
I reset the BLM and it seems to be better but that could just be psychological. LOL

Hood_Lum

Bought another car and haven't messed with the Camaro in a while.

Turns out the problem was arcing wires.
Swapped them out and car ran great....kinda.
Now I'm getting random misfires. It would be really bad like it wants to die.
I give it some gas and it would go away and the car would run fine again.
But the misfire keeps coming back every now and then. I still enjoy driving the Camaro but with this problem I'm afraid to take it far. Any suggestions?

AlwaysCode390

Whats this FREESCAN you are using? I am interested in it , thanks ---

Injuneer

Freescan is a software scanner, only for OBD-I:

http://andywhittaker.com/ECU/FreeSca...0/Default.aspx

Datamaster is also available for OBD-I:

http://www.ttspowersystems.com/

AlwaysCode390

Thanks Injuneer.

I got confused because the guy has a 96' like I do ... but he must have went with an OBD1 swap. Now I see one of the benefits to running OBD1 .

Do they have similar programs for the OBD2 systems? ---