Car dies at around 200 degrees
Car dies at around 200 degrees
Hey guys, I just bought my first Camaro. It's a 1994 Z28 and I bought it cheap because I knew it needed some work. I drove it home and it ran fine, except for needing a tune up and some gas that wasn't a year old. I didn't have time to change the plugs yet as I don't live at home because of college. Anyway, I let it run in my driveway for a few minutes to make sure the fans were coming on and things like that. The temperature gauge got around 200-210 degrees (which i think is pretty close to operating temp.) then the car started missing and died. After this happened I tried to restart it and nothing would work. I turned the key to the on position and the dash lights wouldn't come on along with anything else. I took a battery cable off and reset the computer and it started and idled fine, but as soon as I put it in gear it would miss and die. I was scared it was over heating so I let it cool down for an hour or two and it started fine. I'm scared to run it now because I don't want to crack a head or blow a head gasket. I was just curious if anyone has had anything happen to them like this? Could it be air locked or the thermostat stuck closed which wouldn't let the temp sensor read correctly? Also, I used datamaster to make sure the sensor wasn't bad. I plugged it up and the initial reading was around 85 degrees and gradually increased so I don't think the sensor is bad. I also checked the fluid level and the radiator and overflow jug are at proper fluid levels. If anyone has any input it would be really appreciated. Thanks
Is the SES light on? Is the SECURITY light on? Does DataMaster indicate any codes?
Heat soak can affect the IC module, the coil and the optical cam position sensor in the distributor.
The fact that the dash indicator lights didn't come on when you turned the key to on would seem to indicate a problem with the battery cables or the ignition switch.
Heat soak can affect the IC module, the coil and the optical cam position sensor in the distributor.
The fact that the dash indicator lights didn't come on when you turned the key to on would seem to indicate a problem with the battery cables or the ignition switch.
Is the SES light on? Is the SECURITY light on? Does DataMaster indicate any codes?
Heat soak can affect the IC module, the coil and the optical cam position sensor in the distributor.
The fact that the dash indicator lights didn't come on when you turned the key to on would seem to indicate a problem with the battery cables or the ignition switch.
Heat soak can affect the IC module, the coil and the optical cam position sensor in the distributor.
The fact that the dash indicator lights didn't come on when you turned the key to on would seem to indicate a problem with the battery cables or the ignition switch.
I think that could have affected the IC module, but the starting isn't the problem I have really. It hasn't had that problem but the one time.
Where is the IC module located on these cars? Sorry I don't know this I am kind of new to this.
You said "I turned the key to the on position and the dash lights wouldn't come on along with anything else." I took that to mean the none of the lights on the dash that would normally come on in test mode when you turn the key to "on", came on. Are you now saying you only meant the SES and Security lights did not come on?
Shoebox has most of the info you need regarding LT1 parts and their location. IC module is on a bracket on the front of the driver's side head:
http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg
Shoebox's main website:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html
Shoebox has most of the info you need regarding LT1 parts and their location. IC module is on a bracket on the front of the driver's side head:
http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg
Shoebox's main website:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html
200-210 is not "overheating". That's the temperature GM designed the enigne to run at.
If it "dies" when it reaches that (normal operating) temperature, its not a problem with the coolant. Its something else that is more sensitive to heat than it should be. The IC module, optical cam position sensor, coil could all be sensitive to heat soak. The fact that you have nothing at all coming on when you turn the key to "on" suggests a problem with the battery cables, or possibly the ignition switch.
The coolant temp gauge runs off a temp sensor in the head. You can't read that with a scanner. The PCM gets its data from a coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing.
If it "dies" when it reaches that (normal operating) temperature, its not a problem with the coolant. Its something else that is more sensitive to heat than it should be. The IC module, optical cam position sensor, coil could all be sensitive to heat soak. The fact that you have nothing at all coming on when you turn the key to "on" suggests a problem with the battery cables, or possibly the ignition switch.
The coolant temp gauge runs off a temp sensor in the head. You can't read that with a scanner. The PCM gets its data from a coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing.
That's why I was asking because I thought this (around 200 degrees) was operating temperature.
I understand that the reason that the these components may be failing is because of extraneous heat being delivered to the components. You said that you can't get readings from a scanner, but my computer was giving me readings for temperature from temperature sensor(s). If there are two sensors that would answer some of my questions though, thanks. What I am asking is this: Is there anyway there is maybe an air pocket or something in the cooling system that wouldn't let the water pump, and the only way the sensors are reading is through conduction through the motor, rather than through convection of the water to the sensor. Also, battery cables are clean, and i checked connectivity in the cables and in the switch and everything checked out good. So I think it has to be some kind of temperature sensor that wouldn't let you turn it on (possibly the IC module like you said).
If it is due to heating of electrical components, then where would be the first place to start checking for failure? Or the best way to trouble shoot what the problem is?
I understand that the reason that the these components may be failing is because of extraneous heat being delivered to the components. You said that you can't get readings from a scanner, but my computer was giving me readings for temperature from temperature sensor(s). If there are two sensors that would answer some of my questions though, thanks. What I am asking is this: Is there anyway there is maybe an air pocket or something in the cooling system that wouldn't let the water pump, and the only way the sensors are reading is through conduction through the motor, rather than through convection of the water to the sensor. Also, battery cables are clean, and i checked connectivity in the cables and in the switch and everything checked out good. So I think it has to be some kind of temperature sensor that wouldn't let you turn it on (possibly the IC module like you said).
If it is due to heating of electrical components, then where would be the first place to start checking for failure? Or the best way to trouble shoot what the problem is?
I didn't say "You said that you can't get readings from a scanner". I said that you can NOT read the coolant temp sensor in the drivers side head - the one that feeds the dash gauge. That sensor is simply NOT connected to the PCM (computer).
You can read the temp sensors that are connected to the PCM. One of them is the coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing. That is the one that you are reading with the scanner.
Seems like all you want to do is misquote me, and argue. I'll leave your problems to someone else who may be able to help you better.
Good luck.
You can read the temp sensors that are connected to the PCM. One of them is the coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing. That is the one that you are reading with the scanner.
Seems like all you want to do is misquote me, and argue. I'll leave your problems to someone else who may be able to help you better.
Good luck.
I wasn't meaning any disrespect or anything. I was simply trying to state my problem and don't feel like you were understanding my question really. You did answer my question about the temp sensors kind of. And as far as miss quoting, that was unintentional. That was just how I was understanding what you were saying.
200-210 is not "overheating". That's the temperature GM designed the enigne to run at.
If it "dies" when it reaches that (normal operating) temperature, its not a problem with the coolant. Its something else that is more sensitive to heat than it should be. The IC module, optical cam position sensor, coil could all be sensitive to heat soak. The fact that you have nothing at all coming on when you turn the key to "on" suggests a problem with the battery cables, or possibly the ignition switch.
The coolant temp gauge runs off a temp sensor in the head. You can't read that with a scanner. The PCM gets its data from a coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing.
If it "dies" when it reaches that (normal operating) temperature, its not a problem with the coolant. Its something else that is more sensitive to heat than it should be. The IC module, optical cam position sensor, coil could all be sensitive to heat soak. The fact that you have nothing at all coming on when you turn the key to "on" suggests a problem with the battery cables, or possibly the ignition switch.
The coolant temp gauge runs off a temp sensor in the head. You can't read that with a scanner. The PCM gets its data from a coolant temp sensor on the water pump housing.
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