Canton Oil Pan/Hooker Headers problem
#1
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 3,650
Canton Oil Pan/Hooker Headers problem
My hooker headers pass within millimetres of the low oil sensor on my canton oil pan.
Meaning I can't plug the sensor in without burning the wires since they would touch. The sensor is in the pan but the clip is not attached.
Anyone else have this problem?
Meaning I can't plug the sensor in without burning the wires since they would touch. The sensor is in the pan but the clip is not attached.
Anyone else have this problem?
#2
Re: Canton Oil Pan/Hooker Headers problem
I think quite a few have posted about issues with clearance b/w the sensor plug and the pan. Maybe some heat shield tape will solve the dilemna?
I'm not even going to have an oil level sensor anymore with my new milodon.
I'm not even going to have an oil level sensor anymore with my new milodon.
#4
Re: Canton Oil Pan/Hooker Headers problem
Your gonna have to lose the sensor. I had to with my Kooks and Canton. Sensor wouldn't even fit. I had to hack half the sensor head off and weld it to make my own plug. Worked out good. I've never even seen the low oil light in 10 years of owning the car. It was dissapointing, but I got over it fast.
Ken R.
Ken R.
#5
Re: Canton Oil Pan/Hooker Headers problem
I'm keeping the low oil sensor on my car with the canton pan and hooker headers. It is close, and I wrapped the wires and side of the sensor facing the headers with some DEI heat resistant tape. I've gotten the headers quite hot a few times and haven't had any problems.
#6
Re: Canton Oil Pan/Hooker Headers problem
I had the same problem. At first I dented the header slightly for clearance and wrapped the sensor/wiring with aluminum tape, and I didn't have any burn problems when I ran it that way.
Later I had another bung welded into the front-left surface of the kickout and moved the sensor there. The tip of the sensor ends up in the same place as it did when it was in the normal location.
Later I had another bung welded into the front-left surface of the kickout and moved the sensor there. The tip of the sensor ends up in the same place as it did when it was in the normal location.
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