canton oil pan and 383
canton oil pan and 383
I have the 15-242t and went to put it together and 4 of the rods hit the crank scraper. I called canton and the guy told me that it should fit and if it doesnt than bend the scraper down. I bent it down a little and it didnt seem to make much of a difference before i go any farther i would like to know what other people have done. Does anyone have any pics of how they clearanced their pan?
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
Re: canton oil pan and 383
most people mark and clearance for the rods. bending the scraper down all the way takes away from the point of having the scraper at all. mark the rods that hit with something, put the pan on without the gasket, then see where it hits and cut away from the scraper a bit where they hit.
Last edited by WeirdRich; Jun 2, 2006 at 11:56 AM.
Re: canton oil pan and 383
I put some Dykem blue on the scraper, bolted the pan in place, turned the crank a few revolutions, removed the pan, saw where the compound was removed and used a ball peen hammer to bend those areas down a little.
Re: canton oil pan and 383
Originally Posted by Jeff95TA
I put some Dykem blue on the scraper, bolted the pan in place, turned the crank a few revolutions, removed the pan, saw where the compound was removed and used a ball peen hammer to bend those areas down a little.
Re: canton oil pan and 383
The suggestions on how to clearance it are good, but there is one other thing you want to do.... take out the windage tray/screen and put a piece of paper, cardboard etc... in there and mask off the part of the pan with the doors in it around the sump. The metal is a PITA to clean out of there and you will save time and hassle by blocking that part off before you grind.
Bret
Bret
Re: canton oil pan and 383
I did mine just like Bret suggested. I removed all of the removable parts (BTW-I found 2 of the allen screws holding down the windage screem loose!) completely masked off the entire tray with cardboard and duct tape and went to work with my die grinder until I had about .050" clearance on all moving parts. Then I used about 2 cans of brake kleen to wash it out to make sure there were no chips in there. Then when doing my final preassembly checks, I found the dipstick tube was hitting too
, so I had to do it all over again.
, so I had to do it all over again.
Re: canton oil pan and 383
Personally, I just bought one of these pans, VERY VERY CHEAP PRICE AND VERY VERY HIGH QUALITY and clears the crank with no problem.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...71206392QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...71206392QQrdZ1
Re: canton oil pan and 383
It's on the car now but it is just like any other 7 qt pan, which IS a stock pan with the bottom cut off and welded the bottom on. It comes with the Meldon reinforced pickup tube, and I used the Melling HV Oil Pump @ 70 PSI and the pan didn't need any clearancing besides on the driverside by the pan rail which you just punch it out a couple mm's and it has a trap door etc. and runs great on my car, no problems with factory gasket. I'd recommend it.
Re: canton oil pan and 383
Does anyone else have any suggestions on this pan? I was about to spend $250 on the moroso, does it really make a difference? I need an oil pan and if this cheap one would work fine lemme know.
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