cant wont start ASAP
cant wont start ASAP
i had to fix the turn signal switch, so i had to tear the steering wheel apart. got everything back together, but now the car wont start. when i turn the ignition to start, it makes a click and thats it. not the battery because i just bought a brand new one. im thinking something to do with a wire somewhere. need to get this fixed ASAP because I need the car running tomorrow.
im positive its not the battery. i just checked the connections, and it had the charger on it before it was installed.
i unplugged the PCM fuses hoping a reset would fix it, but now its different. before there was a clicking sound under the dash, not the rod. it was in a different location. now theres only the rod sound under the dash, and some heater valve goin off under the hood.
the starter is not kicking in or anything. its almost like the battery is completely dead, but everything has plenty of power.
i unplugged the PCM fuses hoping a reset would fix it, but now its different. before there was a clicking sound under the dash, not the rod. it was in a different location. now theres only the rod sound under the dash, and some heater valve goin off under the hood.
the starter is not kicking in or anything. its almost like the battery is completely dead, but everything has plenty of power.
could this be a VATS issue? i measured the resistance on the key and it was around 2K ohm. i measured the resistance in the connector and got 3 different numbers. 6k, 9k, and less than 1K. could the dealership tell what number it should be from the VIN? also, if this is the problem how would i put in the resister, solder?
Originally posted by pyrojoex28
could this be a VATS issue? i measured the resistance on the key and it was around 2K ohm. i measured the resistance in the connector and got 3 different numbers. 6k, 9k, and less than 1K. could the dealership tell what number it should be from the VIN? also, if this is the problem how would i put in the resister, solder?
could this be a VATS issue? i measured the resistance on the key and it was around 2K ohm. i measured the resistance in the connector and got 3 different numbers. 6k, 9k, and less than 1K. could the dealership tell what number it should be from the VIN? also, if this is the problem how would i put in the resister, solder?
Is the security light staying on?
This may not help at all but its all I can think of. Can you turn the key to the on position and manually start the car from jumping the starter? Perhaps if you can just get it started one time it a will start agian !
If the security light is staying on or flashing, read your key again and compare it to this table. Get some resistors to match and plug them into the harness (toward the VATS module) you unplugged under the dash.
I guess your options are to cut and splice the resistor in or maybe use some wire taps. If you think you will replace the key cylinder in the future, I would cut or tap on that side of the connector, so when you replaced the cylinder there would be no hacked up wiring.
i connected the resistors and the car started right up. i cut the wire and soldered the resistors to it. i wanted to see if it would start without it being plugged in, and it fired right up. starts with or without the resistors. kinda weird, but oh well.
as long as its running its cool with me.
as long as its running its cool with me.
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