Cant start 1994 Z-28 LT-1 ???
To test this relay- Apply power to 86 and ground to 85, or vise versa, it will not matter, as you are only energizing the coil in this relay. Hook a continuity tester to 30 and 87. Depending on the design of the relay, you will have continuity thru 30 and 87 either with or without the coil energized. If you have no continuity, the relay is dead. If you replace the relay, you will need to make sure you get the same one. There are many different versions of this type of relay, all of which will have the same terminal numbering, but can function very "differently" and drive you insane.
ok ,Yeah ,I might want to just remove it ,maybe leave in key recep ,for deterrent ,she would die if someone stole her baby...
And for the relay ,isn't that just so ,illogical ,to make one ,that's many ,look the same ? lol How ridiculous ..
Ok my friend ,I am done on this for today...
I really appreciate all your help ,I am ill and your help is beyond words...
Thanks...
Have a good night...
Sincerely ,yakster333
I Don't have correct batteries for multimeter ,so will check tomm..
And for the relay ,isn't that just so ,illogical ,to make one ,that's many ,look the same ? lol How ridiculous ..
Ok my friend ,I am done on this for today...
I really appreciate all your help ,I am ill and your help is beyond words...
Thanks...

Have a good night...
Sincerely ,yakster333
I Don't have correct batteries for multimeter ,so will check tomm..
I think they make them all the same so that they don't have to produce more than one base. Another penny pinching corporate decision??
Hey ,My Brother in law has found my relay here
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/752...vf4-11f11.html
and its same part #s and all...
So ,why would or could this not be ok?
Thanks ,Yakster333
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/752...vf4-11f11.html
and its same part #s and all...
So ,why would or could this not be ok?
Thanks ,Yakster333
Last edited by yakster333; Dec 17, 2008 at 05:07 PM. Reason: typo
Yeah ,well ...I had to goto chat there at that site and she told me they dont make that one any longer but she said this
"This part is obsolete an no longer available. We have stock in a possible alternate part of # 255-1826-ND, but suggest that you check a data sheet prior to ordering to make sure it will work in your application."
"You can find the data sheet on line. under the part number."
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=255-1826-ND
Maybe you could look ,... I dunno what I am looking at...
Thanks ,yakster333
"This part is obsolete an no longer available. We have stock in a possible alternate part of # 255-1826-ND, but suggest that you check a data sheet prior to ordering to make sure it will work in your application."
"You can find the data sheet on line. under the part number."
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=255-1826-ND
Maybe you could look ,... I dunno what I am looking at...
Thanks ,yakster333
Last edited by yakster333; Dec 17, 2008 at 09:33 PM. Reason: typo
yes it does ...
my pn is VF4-11F11
Hey ,it is like you said though,I have seen many that have my pn,and are totally different .I think, my wife and I, have Decided to just go ahead and remove the prolock system as its not worth it to me,prolock is outta business , and for a reason...
They are sayin rain here thru Mon.So I don't know.
I will just unistall said system in days to come.Will keep you informed.
Thank you for all your time and effort.
Thanks ,Yakster333
my pn is VF4-11F11
Hey ,it is like you said though,I have seen many that have my pn,and are totally different .I think, my wife and I, have Decided to just go ahead and remove the prolock system as its not worth it to me,prolock is outta business , and for a reason...
They are sayin rain here thru Mon.So I don't know.
I will just unistall said system in days to come.Will keep you informed.
Thank you for all your time and effort.
Thanks ,Yakster333
Last edited by yakster333; Dec 18, 2008 at 12:10 AM.
Ok ,I took out prolock system and was left too connect ,2 yellow car wires...
Still have sec light blinking and does until , I turn switch off...
Now should I start on bypassing VATS???
Thanks ,Yakster333
Still have sec light blinking and does until , I turn switch off...
Now should I start on bypassing VATS???
Thanks ,Yakster333
Yes ,I am very lost now...
I dont want to have to pull column apart ,where I am getting confused is ,
on http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg as you see ,and this is for camaros...
You see he has one white wire coming down column ... with 2 smaller wires in it...a purple and white and purple and black...
I am not seeing a white wire going to a harness...(not sayin it aint there)
but I am seeing this description...
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
so on this link ,according to his layout ,I am finding that orange ,rubbery wire ,it is almost an oval ,and in it ,are 2 white wires ,and they do have a harness..
I am also getting lost as shoebox z site ,says ,set ohm meter to 20k ,I can only set my multimeter to where it says ,x1k ,and on that ,my key pellet ,reads 5 and a hair over ,my friend(neighbor says that means it is 523 ohms..
So this is why ,I am so , lost...
thank you for your continued support...
Sincerely ,yakster333
I dont want to have to pull column apart ,where I am getting confused is ,
on http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg as you see ,and this is for camaros...
You see he has one white wire coming down column ... with 2 smaller wires in it...a purple and white and purple and black...
I am not seeing a white wire going to a harness...(not sayin it aint there)
but I am seeing this description...
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
so on this link ,according to his layout ,I am finding that orange ,rubbery wire ,it is almost an oval ,and in it ,are 2 white wires ,and they do have a harness..
I am also getting lost as shoebox z site ,says ,set ohm meter to 20k ,I can only set my multimeter to where it says ,x1k ,and on that ,my key pellet ,reads 5 and a hair over ,my friend(neighbor says that means it is 523 ohms..
So this is why ,I am so , lost...
thank you for your continued support...
Sincerely ,yakster333
The orange rubbery wire as you put it, is the outer protective sleeve to the 2 white wires inside. The 523 ohms is one of only 15 different values of key codes you could have. So 523 is dead on. You need to unplug the connection of those 2 white wires and put a resistor in the connector going to the PCM. It will be close to 523 ohms but not exactly. It only needs to be within 10%. Resistor are only made in certain sizes, not every value is available. In your case you need a 510 ohm resistor.
The resistor you want is marked with a green band, brown band, and another brown band then either a gold or silver band. You will put it in the connector you unplugged going to the PCM not on the side going up the column to the key switch (which is male anyway). The side going to the PCM is female so the resistor leads fit right in the female side of the connector. Cut the resistor leads short enough so they can't touch each other when plugged into the female connector. Over wrap it with tape and your done.
The security system for the key is now disabled.
The resistor you want is marked with a green band, brown band, and another brown band then either a gold or silver band. You will put it in the connector you unplugged going to the PCM not on the side going up the column to the key switch (which is male anyway). The side going to the PCM is female so the resistor leads fit right in the female side of the connector. Cut the resistor leads short enough so they can't touch each other when plugged into the female connector. Over wrap it with tape and your done.
The security system for the key is now disabled.
Last edited by Guest47904; Dec 21, 2008 at 08:23 AM.
I noticed my male end is the one going to pcm and the female end is one that has 2 white wires going up in column ,I put a 470 ohm and 47 ohm resistor together (solder),and then put them in pcm end and now sec light came on and is on ,even after key is out...
Thanks ,Yakster333
Granted my 523 ohm ,or rather on x1k on multi ,it read 5 and a hair..
Really need the multi ,they suggest to be set on 20k...???
Yakster333
Thanks ,Yakster333
Granted my 523 ohm ,or rather on x1k on multi ,it read 5 and a hair..
Really need the multi ,they suggest to be set on 20k...???
Yakster333
You need to set the ohm meter on 20K ohm scale, because the resistance of the pellet can be as high as 12,292 ohms. You indicate you set your on x1K. If the meter reads 5, then the resistance would be 5 x 1K = 5,000ohms. If the meter reads 0.5 (or simply .5 - NOTE THE DECIMAL POINT) it would be reading 0.5 x 1K = 500 ohms. You ought to just buy an "auto-ranging" multi-meter, and simplify things.
How did you "put a 470 ohm and 47 ohm resistor together (solder)"? If you put them in series (end-to-end) you have 517 ohms. If you put them in parallel, you have less than 47 ohms.
First you need to figure out what the resistance of your key pellet is, then you need to correctly combine the resistors to achieve a value that falls in the acceptable range.
How did you "put a 470 ohm and 47 ohm resistor together (solder)"? If you put them in series (end-to-end) you have 517 ohms. If you put them in parallel, you have less than 47 ohms.
First you need to figure out what the resistance of your key pellet is, then you need to correctly combine the resistors to achieve a value that falls in the acceptable range.
Yes ,with this multimeter ,on x1k ,key pellet read 5 and a hair over ,and yes ,I just realized that would make it a 5000 ohm ,and I dont have one ,I bought stuff to add up to the 500 and whatever ,and radio shack is closed today...
and yes ,I am doing them in series...end to end...
Just need to get a 5k ohm resistor ,I believe...
Thanks ,yakster333
and yes ,I am doing them in series...end to end...
Just need to get a 5k ohm resistor ,I believe...
Thanks ,yakster333


