1994 Z-28 LT-1
Ok , on Fri morn. wife gets in car, puts in prolock killswitch chip and started the car ,just fine ,27 degrees F outside ,she then realized ,the wiper was frozen to windshield ,so she shut off car and went and fixed wiper ,then gets in car and trys to start it and nothing...Just hear fuel or whatever that hum is ,no normal clicking...Now ,I will tell you that we have also put 5-6 starters in it since 04 ,but whenever it eats a starter it does so ,violently and on 1st crank...and there are always pieces...Starter has been best yet ,and all looks good ,all has power...Later that day ,I tried to dump clutch and it would not ,stay running... it would start and as soon as I let off gas it would die...
I have been told all the way from a BS ,blown head gasket to a bad starter relay ,or VATS and now ,I am almost convinced it is a failing prolock system ,as any other time when a starter went out it would still jump off and run...
Sec light blinks (like always) just dead as doornail...Someone has said security light on means failing security ...and I say ,it has ALWAYS blinked and when started gos off...it not running when I dump clutch ,tells me injectors are not working...Thus ,maybe bad prolock...???
None of previous starters died like this...And I took great care and this starter is like 6 mos. old...Worked one min ,didnt the next...
Not like any of the others...I have even smacked with hammer lightly ,I just dont believe its the starter...

I want to get this prolock out ,and can give wiring description as I have seen so far...
Any clues would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks, yakster333

 

Sounds like what my old 95Z was doing. I never could get it to start with the sec light on. I ended up taking it to a local electronics store and thay removed my security system. It was about 30 bucks car started fine after that.

 

Yeah ,I am no mechanic ,but This has never done this...
May I ask what kinda security you had? ,this has a prolock killswitch chip,which we have a little computer chip ,with the little light on it ,that you plug into little receptor...
I have people being very certain its the VATS on the Key ,but I will try spare key later today...I really am thinking its to do with this prolock though as this key we had made maybe 2 years ago and is like new...
But if this killswitch prolock system is messed up ,that would explain why car would not dump off...I mean I have always been able to jump it off ,we even went a time with NO Starter in it ,as it had broken one ,and the bolt was broke off in it...So we just parked on hills and such ,until I could get it fixed...
This time ,just weird ,I was watching whole thing ,she cranked car ,it run for 5 to 6 seconds ,until she turned it off and did the blade and got in and wham...
NUTTIN...She got out and looked at me and said ,it wont do anything....
I have been puzzled ever since...

Thanks ,for any help...
Sincerely ,yakster333

 

I have just walked down to car after reading some on vats ,but I was trying to notice anything ,I might have missed ...
I did find new info ,when I turn key ,to try and start ,I am hearing a clicking in dash each time I try ,It sounds almost like an old flasher would sound ,only when and as I turn key to try and crank...Also the volt meter moves a hair upwards as I am trying to crank...???


Thanks ,Yakster333

 

my old 94 z28 was the only one id seen at the time that didnt have a chip in the key when i got it.the SEC light stayed on all the time but it always started,the previous owners bypassed it somehow and maybe you can do the same to yours.hope this helps you somehow

 

I had a viper security system on my 95Z. From what it sounds to me, it is the prolock is messing you up.

 

I agree its got to do with security ,I have Bro-in-law tryin to help me figure it out ,long distance on net...
Points of interest
Car wont crank
Car wont run when dump clutch
This definately tells me its a security problem ,trouble is
It seems to have 2 different ones...
1-VATS
2-Prolock killswitch chip and little cube ,(brain) I assume...

I am not sure but I think they both disable ,the starter and Fuel Injection
Explaining why it wouldnt run...

I went and bought a multi meter ,so if I can use it to solve this ,I'd greatly appreciate someone walkin me thru it ,if they would be so kind...

Thanks,Yakster333

P.S. wasnt able to get spare key today...

 

Does the security light come on and stay on after you shut the ignition off?

 

No ,it gos out...
When you turn key on ,or try and crank ,it just blinks ,about 1 a sec...
When you turn Key off ,it gos out as well...

Hope this helps...

Thanks ,yakster333

 

The VATS should be O.K. If there was a problem, the security light will stay on, usually for about 10 min. after the key switch is returned to the lock position. This is called "timing out". You may have already read about this in your VATS research. I would start by disabling your ProLock first and see what happens. Make sure your ProLock key is not damaged or dirty, too. Also check the female receptical for your ProLock key, as the terminals can sometimes get messed up by foriegn objects and misalignment of keys.

 

I figure prolock removal ,looks more simple to remove ,than ,bypassing VATS...So I will start there...
,I am almost certain I understand bypassing VATS...
I went to radioshack today , and got that multimeter ,in case I have to try bypassing...

I will try and find more info ,on prolock...All I do ,know for sure ,is they are out of business...And will continue to scour ,for "GOOD DIRECTIONS"
In taking out ,prolock ...

I am guessing it is fairly easy ,someone suggested removing fuse for prolock and if wired or rather designed properly it should just go back to default...
I am NO WIRE MAN ,but I can follow good directions...
From what I saw ,yesterday under dash ,looked too easy ,but I am confused ,grant it ,I did not look thoroughly ,but what I saw on prolock was the following...

The female recept ,on lower dash ,where I put keychip ,from there ,there run out alot of wires ,it looks like most of em goto body as ground ,and then looks like 2 of those goto ,and I am not sure ,but a starter kill inline relay ,a little 1 in. by 1 in. ,relay ,with 4 prongs ,these prongs are numbered ,85,86,87,30. ,so two of the female harness wires goto it and two more thicker wires from ,looks like car ,they have both been cut and wire added(for length) to also goto this relay... and I think this is all I see ...
Now what doesnt make sense to me ,is these two thicker wires I assume either have to other halves ,as I would guess as one is white and one is yellow... so that tells me if I remove all prolock stuff ,I would not want to connect 2 diff color ,wires...??? They would almsot have to each have other halves...Due to color discrim...???

Now that cube relay ,looks ALMOST LIKE the bottom 2 cubes on this link ...
The bottom 2 on that link even have my numbers...They are 5 prong though ,they have an extra # called 87a ,which mine does not have ,but other than 87a ,they are just like my relay....

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp


I hope I am not losing you ,because ,I am almost ,losing me,...I need help ,lol

Thanks ,for your continued help and support...
Sincerely ,Yakster333

 

You can probably just back track all of the wiring on the ProLock and remove it. You will have to watch for the area that it splices into the trigger wire for the starter ( should be a large gauge wire, most likely below the column. It will usually be cut in half (interupted) with a relay controlling the distribution of power to the side leading "towards" the starter. I am willing to bet the VATS has already been disabled on this car, as the installation of the ProLock on a car with working VATS would be redundant, unless the owner was worried about someone being able to make a VATS key and drive the car off. Does the car have a remote start on it?

 

Oh, and the answer to the "thick wires" question. The thick yellow wire I believe is the trigger wire I talked about in the above post. Usually it has to be lengthened by the installer when they hack into it. Follow the white section back and you will probably find the yellow wire again. If these are reconnected and the rest of the ProLock removed, it should be back to stock operation.

 

No ,No there is not a remote start...nor doors or anywhere else ,I think...

I mean it has the theft deterrent stickers on side windows ,but there isnt any other fancy alarms or such,am 99% sure on it...
And that's what ,I meant ,I need to take closer ,look at those 2 thick wires...because the stock part of the 2 wires ,look like 2 totally different wire colors as stated ,but I will follow wire up further ,My bro-in-law in Pa ,has been saying that that inline relay could be the whole problem as well...I might try and get that inline relay ,if they are cheap and available,because ,isnt he correct ,if inline relay is bad ,wouldn't that kill starter and fuel injectors ,just like faulty???
I am not doing nothing ,til I know I am certain at this repair...Especially when wires are involved...


Sincerely ,yakster333

 

is there a way to test this inline relay? I mean off the car???lol yes ,I had to take it out today to get a good pic of it to send her bro-in-law ,so I am staring at it...

Thanks ,yakster333