Can't get it running
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,115
Re: Can't get it running
Ok when I hooked up the fuel gauge that's what I was getting 32. I took the vacuum line of the fuel pressure regulator and it when to 39-41.And when I reconnected it stopped back down
When I turn the car on the fuel pressure gauge doesn't move I had seen it go up to 20psi once I think.
But the car will only run for 5 minutes or less then won't start again until it suits for over an hour
Ok when I hooked up the fuel gauge that's what I was getting 32. I took the vacuum line of the fuel pressure regulator and it when to 39-41.And when I reconnected it stopped back down
When I turn the car on the fuel pressure gauge doesn't move I had seen it go up to 20psi once I think.
But the car will only run for 5 minutes or less then won't start again until it suits for over an hour
If you do get the motor started again let it run for a few minutes then shut off. Pull the vacuum elbow off FPR...is there any sign of fuel in that rubber nipple?
If so FPR is bad
On the start, run 10 min, then stall and not re-start until motor is cool again...text book symptom for a failing ICM. They may test good when room temp. If you take it to get tested again use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat it up and test to see if it is good
Last edited by Chimera96; Aug 14, 2018 at 06:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 284
From: Windsor
Re: Can't get it running
Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate the help
when you turn key on, engine off, the FP gauge should "snap" to 43psi....then drop about 5 psi when the pump stops priming..not slowly rise
when you turn key on, engine off, the FP gauge should "snap" to 43psi....then drop about 5 psi when the pump stops priming..not slowly rise
The gauge slowly went up to about 15 that's it and it only stayed and then died wouldn't start again
If you do get the motor started again let it run for a few minutes then shut off. Pull the vacuum elbow off FPR...is there any sign of fuel in that rubber nipple?
If so FPR is bad
If so FPR is bad
No sign of fuel in this line looks dry and new
On the start, run 10 min, then stall and not re-start until motor is cool again...text book symptom for a failing ICM. They may test good when room temp. If you take it to get tested again use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat it up and test to see if it is good
I bought a new ICM and have it installed
This car only had 60,000KMS and never winter or rain driven
This car only had 60,000KMS and never winter or rain driven
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,115
Re: Can't get it running
when the car stalls, did you have a FP gauge on it monitoring pressure?
If you can rule FP out as a problem...than it is ignition or the needle in a haystack bad wire connection "somewhere". The later can be a real PIA to find.
Example: When my car was about 2 years old it had sudden shut off, no start. Dealership kept replacing Opti's. Problem persisted. So I just started tugging on wires while motor was running in a blind attempt to find something. I just "touched" the plug going into top of Opti and engine immediately shut off. I gave each of the 4 wires a gentle tug and the brown wire just came out. That wire never got crimped when the harness was made. My assumption was the dealership would "push" in the connector thus setting the wire in so car started and ran so I was set...until the problem kept returning. So yeah it was a random find of the needle in the haystack but example of how something that simple will just prevent the motor from starting at all
If you can rule FP out as a problem...than it is ignition or the needle in a haystack bad wire connection "somewhere". The later can be a real PIA to find.
Example: When my car was about 2 years old it had sudden shut off, no start. Dealership kept replacing Opti's. Problem persisted. So I just started tugging on wires while motor was running in a blind attempt to find something. I just "touched" the plug going into top of Opti and engine immediately shut off. I gave each of the 4 wires a gentle tug and the brown wire just came out. That wire never got crimped when the harness was made. My assumption was the dealership would "push" in the connector thus setting the wire in so car started and ran so I was set...until the problem kept returning. So yeah it was a random find of the needle in the haystack but example of how something that simple will just prevent the motor from starting at all
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 284
From: Windsor
Re: Can't get it running
Yes the pressure Seems to drop but the question is because it's not getting fuel or because something else.
I've owned this car since 97 never had any issues at all.
I've since replaced the fuel filter, ignition control module, crank position sensor, fuel relay trying to solve. I'd love to know if it's the fuel pump before I take that.
Someone mentioned the security system but that wouldn't let the car ruin for longer than a minute before the system shut down the engine.
The thing is after it stalls out and I'm turning it over it seems to be starving for gas and no pressure reading on the fuel rail. That's where I'm thinking fuel pump failing or can't keep up so on it's way out?
I've owned this car since 97 never had any issues at all.
I've since replaced the fuel filter, ignition control module, crank position sensor, fuel relay trying to solve. I'd love to know if it's the fuel pump before I take that.
Someone mentioned the security system but that wouldn't let the car ruin for longer than a minute before the system shut down the engine.
The thing is after it stalls out and I'm turning it over it seems to be starving for gas and no pressure reading on the fuel rail. That's where I'm thinking fuel pump failing or can't keep up so on it's way out?
Registered User
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 215
From: St.Louis.Mo,USA
Re: Can't get it running
If your getting a slow climb to 15 PSI, You have a fuel issue, have you ruled out leaking injectors? With no gas in the vacuum line, I would assume the diaphragm is still good, and not ruptured.
If your injectors are not leaking, you have a failing pump. Or possibly a crack in the hose inside the tank, not allowing pressure to be built. either way you need to get into the tank.
If your injectors are not leaking, you have a failing pump. Or possibly a crack in the hose inside the tank, not allowing pressure to be built. either way you need to get into the tank.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 284
From: Windsor
Re: Can't get it running
If your getting a slow climb to 15 PSI, You have a fuel issue, have you ruled out leaking injectors? With no gas in the vacuum line, I would assume the diaphragm is still good, and not ruptured.
If your injectors are not leaking, you have a failing pump. Or possibly a crack in the hose inside the tank, not allowing pressure to be built. either way you need to get into the tank.
If your injectors are not leaking, you have a failing pump. Or possibly a crack in the hose inside the tank, not allowing pressure to be built. either way you need to get into the tank.
I thinking that I need to get into the tank too.
Now the question cut a hole in the trunk or try to drop the exhaust and tank. My car is a convertible. I'm really leaning towards cutting an access hole?
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,917
From: Las Vegas
Re: Can't get it running
You'll get mixed feelings on this. Without question, the filler neck on these cars makes getting the tank out a pain in the ***. That said, the sheet metal over the tank is a part of the structure of the car. I would personally drop the tank as extra work is in my opinion, worth ensuring the car is not weakened.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 284
From: Windsor
Re: Can't get it running
I'm going to cut the hole. Now I just have to find the proper location to cut. Because it's a convertible
The plan then is to weld a metal brace around the hole and to use and tapping screws for the cover with sealer. This should give strength back to it
The plan then is to weld a metal brace around the hole and to use and tapping screws for the cover with sealer. This should give strength back to it
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,119
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: Can't get it running
There's a “trapdoor” sticky thread in the “Fuel and Ignition” forum. Post #122 has a link to a photo of the convertible location. Not so much a location difference as it is a structural difference.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/fue...th-gen-619463/
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/fue...th-gen-619463/
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 284
From: Windsor
Re: Can't get it running
There's a “trapdoor” sticky thread in the “Fuel and Ignition” forum. Post #122 has a link to a photo of the convertible location. Not so much a location difference as it is a structural difference.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/fue...th-gen-619463/
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/fue...th-gen-619463/
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