Unless its a 2 foot curb, then you ruin your wheels....

 

I'm using the stock pan with Eagle H-rods and 12 point bolts.

Ball peen hammer it.

 

I just went through a similar situation on the 383 I have just about finished. Should be ready to fire by the weekend I have a Lunati non-twist forged crank and Carillo rods (not the easiest to clear!). Tried to use the stock pan. Massaged the front portion of the pan quite a bit, that cleared the rods. Then, still making contact. Noticed it was near the dipstick area also. Turned out it was a counterweight on the crank. Pounded out a little (gently to avoid the gasket area) and she worked. Then came the windage tray, and that my friend was not going to happen. Said hell with it and ordered a Canton 242T. I hear they are better than they used to be, but still took a few dings to get that dip stick area to clear the crank. Nice thing is, it has a built in windage tray, crank scraper (took a little trimming) and 6qt capacity. Got it on, dropped the motor in last night and the pan was just barely touching the cross member. Had to shim the motor up a little, now have a 1/4". Sorry for the long reply, but just sharing my experience and a possible solution and what to look for. Good luck!

 

Good info, thanks.

I know the beefier roads and the heavy cranks have much more mass and therefore require more massaging. But they are worth it...lol

 

YEs thank you for all of the info. running into the same problem RIGHT NOW!

 

Stock pan, stock oil pump, 383, 22# of Vortech boost, 1,125 flywheelHP, 9.04@156mph in a 30th SS convertible weighing a shade under 4,000#. Engine built by one of the top shops on the East coast. Owner could afford any part required for the car, but there was NO need for anything other than the stock pan. Also saved him a bit of $$$ when he had to replace the pan a couple times after dropping it too hard from huge wheelstands....

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../fGeorgeWS.jpg

 

hammer worked perfect!!!! thanks!

 

Yep it does work. I had a TA with stock pan, stock pump, 355 12 # Vortech, and a SS with stock pan, stock pump, 383 #15 ATI before.

 

The stock pan is a good pan. My concerns with it are in regards to oil control. No trap doors, no baffles.... things custom pan builders put in there for a good reason.

IMO, every good oil pan should have a scraper, a solid louvered windage tray and a trap door to the main sump area where the pickup's located.

For a stock pan high HP build, I'd defintely invest in an accusump.

My 2 cents.

-Mindgame

 

You can buy the weld on kits also. Thats what i'm thinking of doing with mine because who really wants to ruin an expensive leaky aluminum oil pan by beating the streets with it

-Shannon