Im trying to put my motor in tonight and the connecting rod in the back of the pan accross from the dip stick. Its not the front bolts. Its hitting the side of the pan near where the gasket goes.. it will not stop hitting it. I have grinded the pan down almost all the way through it.. I do NOT want to take the rod bolt out and grind that down.. anyone have any suggestions?

 

What kind of pan and rod bolts?

 

Stock pan and ARP 12pt rod bolts.. it keeps hitting the side of the pan..

 

gonna want a windage tray with a stock pan

 

Couple solutions... easiest and not cheapest as aftermarket pan, and if you are planning on using stock, as someone said, an windage tray is a REALLY good idea. Next option, do a little cuttin on the pan, and do a little welding as well, bump the pan out a little just in that area. last option, hammer lol.

 

You could also dent the pan enough to clear, but a cut and weld onthe pan would probably be the best.

 

Pull the pan and use a ball peened hammer to knock it out is the easiest soloution

-Shannon

 

Yep. Just be careful not to distort the pans gasket surfaces. It's easy to do when your tooling away with a ball peened hammer!

 

got it.. I used spinners idea he pmed me.. took a peice of wood, bolted it to the pan and knocked the side out.. .. Motor is in and done.. Im installing the blower now.. just taking a break.. Thanks guys! What happens if i have a SLIGHT noise from the pan when I start it? It didnt make any when I turned it over by hand..


EDIT:: still have the darn clutch to do too.. dammit

 

you built a 383 and now are installing a blower but are sticking with the stock pan? wow dude you got issues you do know thats not a smart thing to do right.

 

The stock pan is perfectly fine for what he's doing. If you think it isn't, why don't you give us a detailed technical rundown of why it's inadequate? I've used it on a blower motor/turbo motor/383, all without one problem.

 

Ok as a machine shop owner and a guy that has a 9 sec 396 lt1 i will. The blower will work the motor harder. To survive longer the extra oil is needed. The oil scraper will keep the oil in the pan rather that slinging it around causing more stress and work load. The pan rails are notched for more clearence. You dont know whats scraping i have seen many guys come in with pans with the side ripped out from scraping. Rather than going around thinking you know it all listen sometimes

 

If you have or had any scraping I would pull the pan and clean it out. I had the same problem with my Blown 385. #1,2 & 7 rods were just touching the pan after initial start up. I dropped the pan and there were a couple of metal shavings in the pan , Luckily I had blocked the bypass in my filter housing so I know all the oil went through the filter. I opened my filter and went through it as well and found a few small particles. After fixing the pan with the ball peen method I ran the motor for 20 minutes and changed the oil & filter again and at 100 miles and 500 miles. I have 3000 on the motor with no problems. I also used ARP studs but kept the windage tray with the stock pan and have 65psi oil pressure at 3000 rpm and above and 30psi at idle so I am pretty sure I have no bearing problems.

 

Any decent windage tray does a pretty good job of keeping the oil in the pan - no problems installing one with the stock pan (scraper would be a snap to install as well). Ripping the rails out of the pan? Again, not an issue if you take the time to verify your clearances. Stock oil capacity has worked fine for me for many years now.

Lot of people on here with stout setups and the stock pan, and haven't had any problems using the stock pan - maybe you should take your own advice and listen for a change?

 

whatever you cant tell anyone anything cause we all know cutting corners is the best way.