Just wondering if it's possible to pull the main bearing caps to get a visual inspection on the crank and bearings, then reinstall w/o any issues.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Yep, it's done all the time. Just make sure to keep everything clean, replace the bearing caps in the original locations, etc. Remove and replace one at a time.

Rich

 

thanks, wasn't sure and wanted to double check before screwing something up. I knew they did it for checking clearances when building a motor, but didn't know if it was possible in a assembled / "seasoned" motor. I might get some plastigauge and check clearances while I have everything apart.

Thanks again,

Jeff

 

reckon the same goes for the connecting rods, but they are normally tty bolts, correct? I should be receiving 94 service manuals anytime now and will have torque specs on everything.

 

pulled 2 caps tonight to have a check, not really sure what my verdict is. They look worn, but I'm not really seeing any copper or anything, they are silver in color, up around the edges where the bearings meet is a steely greenish grey color. The crank has tiny tiny lines running through the mains, but not real sure how subjective I should be to judging it.

Should I get plastigauge and check clearances, checking for non-planar journals as well?

When I pulled the bolts, the oil looked like hershey syrup that came out with them and smelled somewhat burnt. This motor is supposed to have 60k on it, just wondering if all this is the cause of me firing the motor w/o priming the system after it sitting for so long.

I'm pulling the cam tomorrow, from what I can see the lobes look gray, not silver, which isn't a good sign..

 

Yeah I would like to know on this also, If you missed my other "dead horse" post, I lost O/P on the brakes after a pass and am installing a new oil pump, I figured while I had it apart I would check out the bottom end and replace the bearings if they looked bad. Is this a good idea? Should I get .001 under bearings?