LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Can I get in the 12's with these mods?

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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 11:02 PM
  #16  
zx1216's Avatar
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by GhostZ28
NO, seriously it is easier than you make it out to be, mr. learjet!
IM NOT saying this to argue at all, but to give you some tips i've picked up to make these kind of jobs something you would be comfortable to approach at home. you should refine your shop practices and habits before working. I used to think oil changes were difficult when I was younger. I know now, after pulling a few engines, that there is no reason for me to think that. I was actually making things difficult by not giving myself adequate working space.

Building a cart for a tranny and jacking the car ridiculously high only takes a bit but you end up with the same benefits of a lift.. Just jack the car first, then build the cart to the desired height! You said yourself you could do it in a few minutes if you had a lift.

Get bigger jackstands! Use the classic black/yellow 4-ton's that you see in everyone's pictures. My jack is at max and they only barely slip under the car at notch 0. yes, you do have to jack the car twice and use something much less stable to extend the jack's capabilities but its a small trade-off and the transmission cart is reuseable!

Lastly, go buy some moving blankets or used carpet sections from the carpet store. working in comfortable style does wonders to my morale. its easy to find bolts, fluids dont go EVERYWHERE, they are disposable if you want. It doesn't hurt as bad to hit your funny bone, head or knuckles.

I do agree the FIRST time you do it, building the cart and getting the desired height sucks but after that its a breeeeeeze



Wow, using wheels under the back wheels? The angle the front jackstands are loaded at is disturbing. Get the back of the car higher if you must to level the car more.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:02 AM
  #17  
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From: Tulsa, OK
nah dude, I've done enough physics to know the friction rating of that puppy with its weight is plenty to keep it put. I would have to get close to 40 degrees or so before we would start to get squirely. it has no engine in it in that pic anyway so most the weight is in the back. its a common an handy way to get the back high enough to drop the engine.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 07:20 AM
  #18  
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From: Bennett N.C.
Originally Posted by GhostZ28
nah dude, I've done enough physics to know the friction rating of that puppy with its weight is plenty to keep it put. I would have to get close to 40 degrees or so before we would start to get squirrely. it has no engine in it in that pic anyway so most the weight is in the back. its a common an handy way to get the back high enough to drop the engine.
I have done it this way also, the jack stands are sort of locked in place. if you put them in the right place. and the rear of the car is really heavy without the engine and trans. I used 6 ton stands





to the op, what suspension mods do you have on your other car?
and what for this car? you need about a 1.70 @60' to get high 12s, without a lot of hp. so the better the 60' the better in the 12s
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #19  
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I like ngk tr6 4177 plugs but there are few differant others.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #20  
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My Mom's Comp TA has a 2800 Vigilante in it. Runs great on the street and 1.7x every time at the track on 245 Nittos. Her car only has 3.23 gears though.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 11:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by slowride94z





to the op, what suspension mods do you have on your other car?
and what for this car? you need about a 1.70 @60' to get high 12s, without a lot of hp. so the better the 60' the better in the 12s
If your refering to my LS1 car it has full ajustable suspension and qa1 r shocks and drag bar. It has ran 1.47 60 ft when it was stock suspsion with LCAs and qa1s only NA.

The vert is all stock right now. I was going to do LCAs and maybe some adjustable shocks and lower the LCAs in the rear because I was going to lower it slightly.
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