1996 Camaro A4
LT4 hotcam
1.6 rollor rockers
ported TB
stock stall
tune
3.73 ten bolt
Long tube with ORY
Full weight
Drag radials

 

Absolutely. Lots of folks have broken into the 12s with half those mods, myself included.

 

Easily into the 12's.

 

Great!

 

Why do you want do get all those mods and keep the stock stall?

 

Perhaps he doesn't want to drop the trans and change it. I can't imagine doing it with out a lift. That would just suck!

 

its not hard at all

 

Your idea of not hard and mine are very different. I can roll into the lift and have my tranny sitting on the shop floor in under an hour easy. Lemme see you do that on ramps/stands.

 

I may get a stall, but I was wondering what it would do without one.

In my LS1 car I had a 3500 stall at one point and it was not really that great for driving around town.

Would I loose driveablilty with a smaller stall?
I want something easy to drive on the street. I have a race car and I don't want this one to be set up too much race, but I would like to take it to the track and bracket race it in the trophy classes sometimes. I need it to run at least 12's to get into a second class which is the top 16 cars. Most of the times 12's is good enough to get you there.
What stall would you use with this set up?

Can these cars handle a small NOS shot? I already have a kit from when I used to have it on my race car. Now its collecting dust. I don't want to push it too much because this cars main pupose it to drive on the street for fun. It would help to be able to spray a small shot if there are a lot of faster cars there and I need to get a little quicker to qualify.

I don't mind putting a stall in. I don't have a lift, but I have took quite a few Camaros all the way apart in my garage.
Here is the one that just came out of my garage today. It's where the engine is coming from. I'm doing a 3.8 to 5.7 swap. I think I am going to put it all in stock first to work out any bugs with the swap and then pull it back out later and do a few mods.

 

Did it couple weeks ago.

Of course, I leave one bolt out of the block on purpose.

Put it on stands, have a little plywood cart that the tranny sits on and slides out.

Its 4 bolts for trans cross member, 1 to undo torque arm, and 5? for trans, and off it comes. Done it several times.

 

I ain't saying it can't be done. Anyways I'm not here to argue.

A 9 inch converter somewhere in the 3000 rpm range would help you 60ft time. I DD mine and after about a week you forget it's there. As long as you stick to a quality converter they are pretty tight. As far as the bottle you can safely spray 100 shot on a stock motor if it's in good shape. Just have to pull timing, add fuel, and usually run a plug more suited to the juice. A Mallory 685 box is great for this.

 

NO, seriously it is easier than you make it out to be, mr. learjet!
IM NOT saying this to argue at all, but to give you some tips i've picked up to make these kind of jobs something you would be comfortable to approach at home. you should refine your shop practices and habits before working. I used to think oil changes were difficult when I was younger. I know now, after pulling a few engines, that there is no reason for me to think that. I was actually making things difficult by not giving myself adequate working space.

Building a cart for a tranny and jacking the car ridiculously high only takes a bit but you end up with the same benefits of a lift.. Just jack the car first, then build the cart to the desired height! You said yourself you could do it in a few minutes if you had a lift.

Get bigger jackstands! Use the classic black/yellow 4-ton's that you see in everyone's pictures. My jack is at max and they only barely slip under the car at notch 0. yes, you do have to jack the car twice and use something much less stable to extend the jack's capabilities but its a small trade-off and the transmission cart is reuseable!

Lastly, go buy some moving blankets or used carpet sections from the carpet store. working in comfortable style does wonders to my morale. its easy to find bolts, fluids dont go EVERYWHERE, they are disposable if you want. It doesn't hurt as bad to hit your funny bone, head or knuckles.

I do agree the FIRST time you do it, building the cart and getting the desired height sucks but after that its a breeeeeeze

 

This thread gives me hope lol. My buddy that had my car before me got it to go a best of 13.23 with just an slp cai, gutted cat, tune, 4.10s and a flowmaster catback lol.

 

I have a 3200 stall and it's pretty good for a daily driver. Also you could run a 75 shot without a problems. As long as you change plugs, fpss and a few other safety items.

 

What are the best plugs for with nitrous and what are the best plugs for NA for these cars?

I run NGKs in my LS1 car. I can't remember the part number off the top of my head though. I know I ran copper ones when I was spraying. Now I either have platnum or IR.

I was told the engine was rebuilt 8k miles ago, but I don't know if its true or not. I pulled the valve covers off and its clean as can be inside the heads. The only thing that puzzles me is the sprark plugs look like the original plugs. It has 187k on the odometer.