Maybe ask McLeod. I have no direct experience with that specific clutch. There aren't many active members left here. And with the holidays even less traffic.

 

thank you man, you've always been helpful. so Im 90% sure I have a findaza flywheel, so i bought the friction plate for it, along with the Mcleod super street pro. so we'll see how this goes.

 

Why did the crankshaft break? Is it possible it broke because of improper balance - e.g. wrong flywheel? You need to sort that out with the engine builder.

 

thats kinda what crossed my mind. in the other thread i got about the car not starting explains more. but i bought this 94 z28 6spd, built all the way around, all high end parts on the build etc. its a "cook performance 383 racer" as they called it back before they went out of business. so its a high compression 383 forged stroker. guy i had put the clutch in was a "heavy chevy performance knowledgeable" but yeah i put 250 miles on the car with the new clutch, ran good, i even raced a reg. new rousch gt like maybe a 2015 or newer and ran right beside him. so what do i need to tell this mechanic now that he has all the new parts, crankshaft etc. about my fizdaza flywhell with the super street McLeod. my mechanic is kinda acting dumb founded about my fizdaza flywheel and mcleod clutch? like do i need to remind this "chevy performance" guy something about weight-2 crank profection?

 

You should ask the person assembling the engine if the crank is a 1-piece rear main seal. By strict definition to purists, the engine is “internally balanced” even when it requires the butterfly weight on the flywheel or pressure plate. This article explains it very well:

https://www.chevydiy.com/1955-1996-c...manual-part-2/

Is the new engine builder starting all over with balancing the rotating assembly?

I would think that a missing weight, where one is required, would cause noticeable vibration of the engine.

 

i ended up having the kinda rare hard to find 327 crankshaft that broke. so its gettin the same back in it.

 

I don't understand.

It “broke”, but you're going to get another identical crankshaft because it's “rare”?

And by “327” are you referencing the 3 digits of the casting number on the front of the LT1 block? Or are you saying the crankshaft is for a 327 cubic inch displacement (3.25” stroke)?

 

its a 383 forged high compression stroker motor. the mechanic is has been my boss's tenant on rental house for a long time. So it should turn out right and run strong. about the crankshaft they already got it at the shop. apparently it maybe was a old 327 block orginally, bc he was asking me what year was the block. Its an eagle crankshaft from summit for $700ish. Summit orginally told him it wouldnt be available until late January back in November. Thats all i know. they had it completely gutted damn near in the engine bay, tranny out, they had trouble seperating the tranny out, had to get a new bellhousing or whatever. ill find out what exact shaft i have. Thanks for the input, ill keep ya'll updated. I ordered the super street McLeod and a
fidanza friction plate.

 

Make sure the reused aluminum flywheel has the correct balance for the crankshaft/rotating assembly. The fact that the crank broke with this flywheel attached leaves me uneasy.

Is this rare Eagle crank cast or forged? 10 years ago it seemed like Eagle cast cranks were breaking almost daily. Most people avoided them for any serious build.