Which cam would be better for me? 230/236 or 236/242?
Originally posted by tnthub
I have the 236 242 in my stroker. It is not good on the street. I drive two footed. My 1-2 shift is at 6200, ans 2-3 shift is at 6400 at the track. I do have CNC heads, 1.6 rr's, and longtubes...
6500 is a fairly high shift point.
People make choices. For me having a deadly consistent bracket car thast I can drive on the street is what I choose so I put up with 10mpg, poor idle, poor ride, to get my 1.5-1.6 sixty foot time and ET's within .02 on a consistent basis.
In my opinion, if you want something that sounds good and idles well so you can look and feel cool, 235 242 is too much on a stock bottom end.
I have the 236 242 in my stroker. It is not good on the street. I drive two footed. My 1-2 shift is at 6200, ans 2-3 shift is at 6400 at the track. I do have CNC heads, 1.6 rr's, and longtubes...
6500 is a fairly high shift point.
People make choices. For me having a deadly consistent bracket car thast I can drive on the street is what I choose so I put up with 10mpg, poor idle, poor ride, to get my 1.5-1.6 sixty foot time and ET's within .02 on a consistent basis.
In my opinion, if you want something that sounds good and idles well so you can look and feel cool, 235 242 is too much on a stock bottom end.
Brian
Originally posted by tnthub
I have the 236 242 in my stroker. It is not good on the street. I drive two footed. My 1-2 shift is at 6200, ans 2-3 shift is at 6400 at the track. I do have CNC heads, 1.6 rr's, and longtubes...
6500 is a fairly high shift point.
People make choices. For me having a deadly consistent bracket car thast I can drive on the street is what I choose so I put up with 10mpg, poor idle, poor ride, to get my 1.5-1.6 sixty foot time and ET's within .02 on a consistent basis.
In my opinion, if you want something that sounds good and idles well so you can look and feel cool, 235 242 is too much on a stock bottom end.
I have the 236 242 in my stroker. It is not good on the street. I drive two footed. My 1-2 shift is at 6200, ans 2-3 shift is at 6400 at the track. I do have CNC heads, 1.6 rr's, and longtubes...
6500 is a fairly high shift point.
People make choices. For me having a deadly consistent bracket car thast I can drive on the street is what I choose so I put up with 10mpg, poor idle, poor ride, to get my 1.5-1.6 sixty foot time and ET's within .02 on a consistent basis.
In my opinion, if you want something that sounds good and idles well so you can look and feel cool, 235 242 is too much on a stock bottom end.
383 right?
were expecting higher on my 236/242- aobut 300-400 rpm higher
Originally posted by treyZ28
thats it? thats all you shift?
383 right?
were expecting higher on my 236/242- aobut 300-400 rpm higher
thats it? thats all you shift?
383 right?
were expecting higher on my 236/242- aobut 300-400 rpm higher
I've tried to explain this before but it's all been in vain.....
It depends alot on the cylinder head! A smaller port is going to peak sooner while a larger port on the same engine would move that peak higher. Yeah, with that cam and a ~200 cc port, a 6200 rpm peak is about right (by my edumucated guesstimate).
Looking at the combos many of the guys here are running..... I'd say that they're probably shifting way higher than they need to. A 240-ish cam in a 383 with 200 cc heads is usually good for power to maybe ~6500 rpm peak... should give you an idea.
-Mindgame
With Xe cams even the 236/242 you'll never peak past 6500rpm, those cams peak very early, my heads were destroyed when I got them & I never knew, all my exhaust valve guides were destroyed & I never knew leaking oil into the exhaust etc... & I made the power in the sig, also my exhaust seats were hammered so bad that they wouldn't pass a compression test if your life depended on it.
Also drivability is amazing, from 1700+rpm it pulls real hard, its all in the tune, when I first had the cam (with destroyed heads) I was like WTF have I done??? car would drive like crap, nothing lots of tunning didn't fix, it pulls hard at part throttle, ask Niterider, I let him drive the car & eve he agrees it pulls a lot harder then his 230/236 XE on the street, its all in the tunning
Also drivability is amazing, from 1700+rpm it pulls real hard, its all in the tune, when I first had the cam (with destroyed heads) I was like WTF have I done??? car would drive like crap, nothing lots of tunning didn't fix, it pulls hard at part throttle, ask Niterider, I let him drive the car & eve he agrees it pulls a lot harder then his 230/236 XE on the street, its all in the tunning
Last edited by bunker; Sep 13, 2003 at 02:38 PM.
im soing to be honest ive got a buddy that lives about three miles from my house and hes over all the time. and from riding in his car alot and from doing the tuning on it. i think i want something aliitle bigger.
so my question is what do yall thnk about the 233 239 on a 110.
so my question is what do yall thnk about the 233 239 on a 110.
sounds good, 110 is a little hard to deal with but nothing bad 
guys with my car, I also have an alluminum flywheel & have no problem starting off the line, thing wants to jump off the line

guys with my car, I also have an alluminum flywheel & have no problem starting off the line, thing wants to jump off the line
Hmm.. .My gas milage was awesome with that cam in 6th gear on the HWY, in the city, well thats a different story. But I got awesome near stock milage on the HWY, must have to do with tunning aswell. It was a good all around cam, definetly not too big at all.
well, i"ve got an auto with 3.73's, so that help contributes to my bad gas mileage.
As for the 400rwhp mark...I hope to be close to it, maybe upwards of 385-390 when I finally get it tuned and a new tranny.
As for the 400rwhp mark...I hope to be close to it, maybe upwards of 385-390 when I finally get it tuned and a new tranny.
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