I trapped 104 in the 1/4 before the cam and with SLP Shorties - dynoed 288 rwhp and 312 torque.

With only the cam swap (cam, springs, 1.6 rrs...), I trapped 109.6 and ran a 12.66 - no dyno at this time. I ran this in the winter which we all know makes a significant difference in AZ.

I installed the Hooker LTs and the car has ran a best of 12.64 @ 110.8 - this was in 90*+ and very traction limited (1.923 60'). Car dynoed 335/346 at this time on 100% stock tuning.

Since you already have 1.6 RRs, you should pick up around ~ 22-30 PEAK rwhp with the cam swap.

Good luck.

 

sounds like your goals are very similar to mine. I decided on the xe218/224 on a 112 to keep me around a 6100 rpm shift point. It's waiting install within the next month, sorry i don't have the results yet.

 

yeah rich i'm thinking about doing a 214/224. only i'm thinking about a 108lsa and a 112icl. i know its not the most common thing on earth to do but i'm thinking about stabbing it in a 383 with ~11.3:1 and ported stock heads with around a 190cc intake port flowing about ~260cfm peak flow and lightwieght valves. yeah i know the cam is tiny so all you big cam guys can save it, i know. i'm looking to put out a huge amount of tq across the band with a very tame car for the street.

OldSStroker if you or bret have any comments about this cam or how you would do it differently i'd love to hear you guys input.

 

Definitely keep us informed and repost the results here. Why did you decide upon this cam you are installing? What gave you the idea to go to it?

 

Why do want to install it "retarded", with the ICL at 112 and the LSA at 108? I haven't worked out the valve events, but at most I would do it "straight up" with 110LSA, 110ICL. 108 LSA is quite narrow for a street motor.

I like those lobes though.

Rich Krause

 

Listen to Rich Krause on this. 110 straight up lights my fire also.

I like your idea of the 383. That's very similar to 96Z's combination, which I mentioned above. Bret has a Group Purchase for balanced 383 rotating asemblies going on now.

The low end one sounds like it would work well for you.

One problem: with the 383, it will be hard to limit it to just 30 lb-ft increase across the board.

 

Like you my main concer was not overrevving the bottom end since it's a daily driver and although i'd like to post good track times, it's still a street car. I figured in a couple of years I will go big all over with a 383, so porting the heads isn't in the near future.

Origianlly my 3 choices where the GM ZZ3, crane powermax 8033 (210/224 i think) and the 214/224.

When I saw the cam kit sale at combination motorsports It made the crane and zz3 look really expensive in comparison and i decided to go with a comp.

I talked with seth for quite awhile about my goals of keeping the peak HP down to ~5500. He convinced me that everyone with the 214/224 regretted not going a little bit larger aka the 218/224 at minimum. I also toyed with the idea of getting it ground straight up since the SStrokers , rkrause , and other gurus always talk about that.

So here was my pick:
214/224 on a 111 LSA straight up
I was basically trying to match the zz3 with comp lobes, it has a smaller .05 duration but a larger advertised duration because of the less agressive lobes.

In the end i decided not to try to get too creative on my first cam and just go with a proven combo and what the engineers at comp had developed for stock heads, the 218/224 112. The slightly larger duration with 4* advance should keep it about the same peak as the 214/224 straight up, but give a little more lope which i like. Guru's, am i right here?

I wanted the most powerfull cam which peaked within a couple hundred rpms of stock, since you want to retain the flat torque curve the 114lsa will flatten the peak and pick up low end and would probably be more appropriate for you.

i really wanted to pick Bret's brain about this but would have felt guilty wasting his time since I wasn't buying it from him. So what is the best comp cam for our goals? Since CMotorsports sent me the wrong cam maybe it's not too late to change my order. Seth was appologetic and handled the mixup of sending the 113 instead of the 112 very professionally. I lost no respect for them based on their screwup because of the was they handled it.

-Brent

 

What is the straight up equivilent of the 218/224 112? using comp lobes?

 

When I was choosing a cam I wanted pretty much the same thing you do.

I primarily use my car for open track road racing and low end torque was very important to me for pulling up out of corners. This is where I can kill LS1 cars, but was getting kicked in the nutz on the long straights by the LS1 cars.

So after much research and talking with other road racing guru's, I went with the CC XE-230/236 on a 112 lsa.

I only have the SOTP meter to go by and how it preformed on the road course to go by, but I would say that it pretty much was what I had hoped for.

Still has low end grunt... no noticeable difference either way - better or worse...but pulls much harder in the 4000-6500 rpm range. I actually only rev to about 6200 though.

I was still getting walked by highly modded LS1's (430-460 rwhp) cars on the long straights, but not near like I was. And the lightly modded LS1's I could pretty much hang with.

I still plan to a trip to the dyno soon, just haven't had the time to make it yet.

 

what i was thinking about with the lsa and the "retarded" timing *no pun intended* was that i would still have about 3* of overlap @ 50 about like a 224-230. and that by retarding the intake closing point that i would boost my hp peak just over 6k rpm. but i suppose the 110/110 would be dandy as well. guesse i'll run with the pack here OldSStroker you wouldnt mind making a mock up in your engine sims for me would you? just so i can kind of see the diff here. and yeah 30ft lbs would be a rediculous amount to gain in a 383 like i'm planning lol. the other thing is i'm going to put a little bit of spray on it like a 150 shot. so maybe taking that into consideration i will take your advice and go with 110. yeah i know n20 likes a little bit more lsa but i wont be on it often enough to warrant the n/a power loss imho.

 

There's a local guy around here that runs a 218/224 (3300 series lobes) that's a 111 with 2 degrees advanced ground in, and that car is an absolute rocket. WAY faster than my friends Hot Cam car (though it can't hang with my car ) . I was very impressed with how fast that car is considering how small the cam is. Just some information for you since we were on the subject, not sure it helps though