I'm about ready to start day three of the cam install process. I
also pulled the rear end to have 3.73s installed at the same time.

All work so far is disassembly and I'm down to the intake and front
cover with everything removed and ready to start pulling them. I
will also be pulling my exhaust manifolds today.

Questions:
1) Will the AIR pipe that runs by the front edge of the oil pan cause
any problems when I drop the front edge of the pan?
2) Should I drain all the oil out of the pan and remove the filter?
3) Should I remove the starter for the oil pan drop operation?
4) I dropped the knock sensor in the coolant pan, should I replace it?

Misc Notes:
1) It's amazing how GM packed all this stuff into this f-body package.
2) I found a factory boo-boo with the e-brake cable. Hopefully this
will solve an old rattle problem.

 

Q1-pipe was not in the way on my car.

Q2-I didn't have to.

Q3-Didn't have to to that, either.

Q4-Dry it off and see if you hear anything inside if you shake it. It not, reuse it.

 

Thanks Rob. Now that I am at the end of day three of disassembly
I have a few more questions.

Q1) Is there any advantage to going with a brass block drain pug?
Even if I don't go brass I will go with an allen style so I can get it out
easier next time.

Q2) I could use a little more detailed explanation of dropping the
front edge of the oil pan. Is the gasket glued to the pan or block?
I can see the RTV at the 90* points in the front and back. What
about in between?

Q3) Can I get the intake off w/o removing the steam pipe from the
heads? It looks possible with a little bending.

So far it's going pretty well. The exhaust manifolds were a bear to
remove, and thats with all kinds of stuff out of the way. The AIR pipe
is a major PITA and there does not seem to be an easy way to
remove it. I also have one fugly spark plug (#8). It was real nasty
and I will post a pic sometime tomorrow. Real oily, maybe a valve
guide seal.

 

Your choice on the plug. I don't know of any advantage/disadvantage on the metal, except that brass would be softer and might be a problem if it got real stuck (rounding off).

The oil pan gasket will probably stick to the block and may only have a dab of sealant on the corners. You will have to guide it off slowly and separate any places that stick to the pan, so the gasket does not tear.

Just give the steam pipe some gentle persuasion to get it out of the way. It'll be ok.

 

Not to hijack the thread or anything but is there a trick or any special steps to replacing the pan gasket with out lifting the engine? Mine was so crusty that it tore when I eased the timing cover off. I'm going to go back out and pull the starter all the way out and if nothing else try to unbolt the Y-pipe. All I wanted was an electric water pump and new opti, stupid car.

 

I have seen a thread in the past where someone installed an oil
pan gasket on the car. It looks possible to me, but I have not done
it before.

 

You have to lift the engine. Unbolt the two long motor mount bolts, and jack it by the front crank pulley. That will tilt it enough to slide the pan out the way enough to get teh new gasket in

 

Will the pan come right off ir is this just going to give me more room to work in? Thanks for the help so far, I kinda figured after looking that I might have to lift the motor.

 

It'll be a tight fit, but itll come out. You can't get it out without lifting motor.

 

I've installed 2 oil pan gaskets without lifting the engine. You just need to:
-remove the oil level sensor
-drop the oil pan
-remove the oil dipstick
-pull the old gasket
-Clean the pan and block mating surfaces thourougly.
-Install the new gasket by slipping it in place directly under the pan, then slip one side over the pan flange, and then the other...
-Dab some sealant at the front and rear corners of the block
-bolt it all up and your ready to go.