cam advice please
cam advice please
I realize there have been countless cam discussions, but I'd like some advice relative to MY vehicle plans.
I have the 96 Formula described in my signature.
The car has or will have the following before the cam is installed:
SLP CAI
TB Bypass
160* thermostat
Magnaflow catback
3.42 rear gears
Hooker Long Tubes
Mufflex ORY
I plan to stick with stock heads.
I plan to install a torque converter in the 2800 RPM range in the future as well.
I drive my car every day.
I occasionally go to the track, although it's mostly to see how well a mod has improved the car's performance. But I would like a low 13 or high 12 second timeslip in proper weather if possible.
I don't want to spin the engine above 6200 RPM or so.
I don't want to replace my valve springs annually (meaning no super high lift cams or rockers).
I would like some lope, enough lope to know there's a cam installed, but I don't want it hunting for an idle either.
I'd kinda like to see 325 HP or better on the dyno if possible, but I'm not holding my breath for it.
At the time of the cam install, I will be installing 1.6 rockers, hardened pushrods and new lifters.
I would like to know your opinions on what cam you think would perform best for the vehicle, given the conditions I noted above.
I have been considering:
LT4 HotCam
CC305
CC306
XE 218/224
XE 224/230
If you have another cam recommendation for me, then by all means speak up.
Thanks in advance for the responses, both positive and negative.
I have the 96 Formula described in my signature.
The car has or will have the following before the cam is installed:
SLP CAI
TB Bypass
160* thermostat
Magnaflow catback
3.42 rear gears
Hooker Long Tubes
Mufflex ORY
I plan to stick with stock heads.
I plan to install a torque converter in the 2800 RPM range in the future as well.
I drive my car every day.
I occasionally go to the track, although it's mostly to see how well a mod has improved the car's performance. But I would like a low 13 or high 12 second timeslip in proper weather if possible.
I don't want to spin the engine above 6200 RPM or so.
I don't want to replace my valve springs annually (meaning no super high lift cams or rockers).
I would like some lope, enough lope to know there's a cam installed, but I don't want it hunting for an idle either.
I'd kinda like to see 325 HP or better on the dyno if possible, but I'm not holding my breath for it.
At the time of the cam install, I will be installing 1.6 rockers, hardened pushrods and new lifters.
I would like to know your opinions on what cam you think would perform best for the vehicle, given the conditions I noted above.
I have been considering:
LT4 HotCam
CC305
CC306
XE 218/224
XE 224/230
If you have another cam recommendation for me, then by all means speak up.
Thanks in advance for the responses, both positive and negative.
marcin (xxxsupasaint69 or something like that)
has similar mods and stock tuning putting down about 350rwhp with the cc306
here's his webpage
http://bellsouthpwp.net/L/T/LT1ultraz/index.htm
i dont know how well that is for a daily driver though
has similar mods and stock tuning putting down about 350rwhp with the cc306
here's his webpage
http://bellsouthpwp.net/L/T/LT1ultraz/index.htm
i dont know how well that is for a daily driver though
I think for what your doing the hot cam will be just fine. I had it before in one of my motors with your similar mods and it really woke the motor up and had good success through out the hole rpm range and even spraying it as well.
Originally posted by rpm4lalo
I have the 306 with stock heads in my car and love it.
I have the 306 with stock heads in my car and love it.
Lee, for your goals I like the 224/230 XE grind, but on a 114 lobe separation angle, since yours is an auto, and is daily driven, the 114 LS will help idle vacuum and also broaden and flatten the torque curve (good for autos). It will cost you 4-7 peak HP but the benefits of the broader tq curve will make up for it provided you are not out to build a dyno queen, and I know that's not what you're wanting 
On a 110 Intake Center line it will make peak power around 5900, which is fine if you do not want to spin over 6200. If that is borderline for you, take it to a 108 ICL (which would make it a 114+6), that will cost you a few additional HP but will keep the HP and TQ peaks lower and more in your comfort zone.
I think 325hp to the wheels with that cam, tuning and headers and all the other usual stuff would be pretty realistic.

On a 110 Intake Center line it will make peak power around 5900, which is fine if you do not want to spin over 6200. If that is borderline for you, take it to a 108 ICL (which would make it a 114+6), that will cost you a few additional HP but will keep the HP and TQ peaks lower and more in your comfort zone.
I think 325hp to the wheels with that cam, tuning and headers and all the other usual stuff would be pretty realistic.
Originally posted by BUBBA
210/224 112*. Small, but mighty.
210/224 112*. Small, but mighty.
I have a CC305, it picked up good power at top end and maintained the low end torque. Peak power is at 5800 rpms. W/ shorty headers and cats I dynoed 315 rwhp
. Put LTs and a cutout (which I will be doing VERY soon) and you're up to 335 rwhp easy.
. Put LTs and a cutout (which I will be doing VERY soon) and you're up to 335 rwhp easy.
If i were doing it again I would use something along the lines of a
218/227 110 +2 My current cam with a little more exhaust duration so it has more overlap and also lopes a little harder. less 1 degree lsa and two degrees of advance so you don't get too high of a dynamic compression ratio (it is still high in dcr). That crane cam bubba recommended works awesome and has a larger duration split than most of the XE grinds, so why not get your XE grind custom ground with more exhaust bias.
In my M6 I shift the 218/224 111 +4 at 6200, it peaks ~5900. note that is STD hp, not SAE (343).
Check out comp's recommendations, they did that for a reason. The peak of the 224/230 doesn't outperform the 218/224 on stock heads, so why use it on stock heads unless your just looking for lope. The larger cam can only hurt your bottom end and make tuning harder. The 306 does make good power even on stock heads if your willing to spin it very high, but again your bleeding off cylinder pressure with the large lobes and giving up low end for only a couple pk hp.
I think your a lot like me, looking for performance, but are still concerned with everyday driving, not willing to be down on low end tq for just a few measly peak HP when your at the track.
None of these cams are magical, they all work, just go with any of them that you listed but the above is my choice for your goals
218/227 110 +2 My current cam with a little more exhaust duration so it has more overlap and also lopes a little harder. less 1 degree lsa and two degrees of advance so you don't get too high of a dynamic compression ratio (it is still high in dcr). That crane cam bubba recommended works awesome and has a larger duration split than most of the XE grinds, so why not get your XE grind custom ground with more exhaust bias.

In my M6 I shift the 218/224 111 +4 at 6200, it peaks ~5900. note that is STD hp, not SAE (343).
Check out comp's recommendations, they did that for a reason. The peak of the 224/230 doesn't outperform the 218/224 on stock heads, so why use it on stock heads unless your just looking for lope. The larger cam can only hurt your bottom end and make tuning harder. The 306 does make good power even on stock heads if your willing to spin it very high, but again your bleeding off cylinder pressure with the large lobes and giving up low end for only a couple pk hp.
I think your a lot like me, looking for performance, but are still concerned with everyday driving, not willing to be down on low end tq for just a few measly peak HP when your at the track.
None of these cams are magical, they all work, just go with any of them that you listed but the above is my choice for your goals
Last edited by 94formulabz; Oct 28, 2003 at 05:32 PM.
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