Hello guys, Ive been on here a few months and Ive been doing some research on the 4th gen F-car. In a couple of months, Ill be looking to buy either a 93+ Camaro/Firebird or a 94/95 Mustang 5.0. Now after my research, I have a few questions for you guys so you all can help me make my decision as to buy a f body or not. As I love both the mustang and camaro equally.
here goes:
1. Exactly how high in HP/TQ can I go in a LT1 before splayed caps are needed or recommended?
2. How well do these cars respond to supercharging? as I dont see alot of you w/ them compared to the Stang' guys.
3. Is there a company that makes true duals for these cars or will I have to get a custom exhaust job?
4. I plan to go to a 383 stroker-- who are some good companies to go to for kits?
5. Are the LT1 blocks strong enough to support 550+ stroked and blown flywheel HP?

Sorry for so many questions but I cant make up my mind!! (I wish I could buy both!) And I was looking for an unbiased opinion lol. Thanks for any and all help!
Jason

 

Lt1s have 10.5:1 Compresion, blowers are ok but if you want to go more than 6-8 on a stock bottom end, your in for some trouble. you can build the hell out of an LT1 short block for a blower set up, they can easily suport 5 to mid 900s to the wheels on a built short block with the right components. Theres a local car here in town making mid 900s on a blower and nitrous combo. But yea, mid 500s to the wheels should be no porblem for a well built short block. How ever the stock trans and rear may not agree.

 

1. Probably looking at about 500+ hp. Some say it isnt completely necessary either and theres some guys running more through 2-bolt blocks still.
2.They respond just fine AFTER your rebuild the motor for boost. LT1s are around 10.4/10.5:1 compression ratio. Highest on a stock motor is about 7-8psi intercooled but not recommended above 4,5-6psi.
3.There is one company I know of in Texas and has been discussed on this board that does true dual set-ups for 4th gens. Do a search.
4. Combo Motorsports and Bauer Racing Engines are site sponsors that provide strokers. Give them a call.
5. LT1 blocks are strong enough to support 1200 flywheel horsepower plus. No ones really tested the limits except for George Baxter (97 SS vert) who was around that power level before he switched over to a Gen I SBC setup.

 

I am new to LT1's myself so I can't really help, but I will tell you that I know that the LT1 block can handle a good bit of power. I have heard people talk about 1000HP LT1's with the stock block. Just a matter of howlong it will last and how well its built.

 

Wow, LT1's are stronger than I thought! I was expecting around 7-800hp to br the limit but 1000+ is even better! I want to go w/ the stroker first so I guess lowering the CR to about 9-9.5:1 would be better for boost down the road.
Another question, The LT1 heads when ported and bigger valves can support my HP goal? Please name a few places that does a quality port job.
I guess the only thing that scares me about these cars now is the Opticrap as you all call it-- Is there a way around it?

And since I plan on getting a M6 and revving to about 6700rpm, I know the 10 bolt will crap on me so I guess I'll save a little extra $$ for a Moser 12 bolt for insurance purposes.

Jason

 

If you're just starting out slowly, I would go with a 6-speed '93 F-Body. Obviously if you can afford it, spend a little more, go up a few years and get a WS-6 or an SS. I'm partial, I like the way they look.

The reason you don't see many with blowers is you don't really need them! 275 to as much as 305 Horsepower (WS-6 and SS LT1 models) stock. That's a pretty good amount to start with before you've even bolted any mods on.

If you can't drive a stick that well, then get an automatic. That will allow you to do well from a stop. All you have to worry about is learning how to ease into the throttle when the light turns green.

Just make sure you get one with 3.23 gears if it's an auto. Makes a world of difference.

However, since it sounds like you're going to mod the crap out of the car and stroke it, it doesn't really matter what you get. If you do get an LT1, keep in mind long tubes really wake LT1's up. That mod alone will bring you up to LS1 territory. So you'll want to include those in your build-up assuming you don't have to worry about emissions.

And yes the Opti-crap does suck, but it's not like it goes out every 12k miles. *Most* will last quite a while. And they're getting really cheap these days (if you can do it yourself. Otherwise, save up money for the labor costs).

- Matt
'96 WS-6 A4 ~ K&N filter, cut-out...and a 125-shot.
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/.../1951/cars.htm

 

Yes good heads will easily support your goal. Lloyd Elliot (nightrain66 on this board) has a very good rep here and many put down very good numbers on stock blocks with his heads and cam.
Optispark:yes there are ways around it.
1. LTCC-LS1 to LT1 Coil per Cylinder conversion kit. many here use it but isnt necessary. Most make the opticrap out to be worse than it actually is. The opti is in the wrong spot (under waterpump) and doesnt like water. Good idea by GM, bad execution.
2. Dynatech's Dynaspark. Its a replacement that is basically a beefed up opti. The few that have tried it say its a really nice piece of work. Its priced a little too high to be desirable though at $600. GM opti's are $200 from Jason Cromer or Dal Slabaugh.
3. Have the intake manifold converted in the back to accept a basic GM HEI distributor. There's pics of a twin turbo Impala SS with this done so you can see it.

In short with a good set of heads, you shouldnt need too much boost to do it.

EDIT: Before you jump into this, do your homework. You can read for days on this board about this type of thing. Strokers, blowers, boltons, cams, heads etc. To get a good idea of what you really want, by all means use that search function. Chances are, some of your questions have been answered 1000x over. Also look for Rich Krause (rskrause). He's the drivetrain forum moderator. I think he's running an ATI F-1 supercharger @ 700rwhp or near there. Very knowledgeable Forced Induction guy.

 

Those 200 opti's are for the vented 95-7 type
93-4 [unvented] are 290ish...

 

Well thanks for all the replies guys, you all are a big help. Well Im leaning towards getting a 94/95 M6 TA (looks more aggressive). And since chances are Ill be pulling the block right away(for head work, lower comp. pistons, h-beam rods and stroker crank), Ill probably get a cheaper, mid-to-high mile car that still looks pretty decent.
Again thanks for the help,
Jason

 

if i were you i would get a 94 camaro, they are the most reliable according to consumer, and as for superchargers and exahst and all that stuff im sure its avalible...

in my opinion, the camaro is the cheapest car for power on the market and it always has been.
like my car is stock, and i can pretty much beat anyone who's car MSRP is under $35,000 and i paid under $10,000