BlackbirdWS6

My car idles a bit on the low side,(<950 at times) and I noticed at a stoplight that if I just touch the throttle to open the blades up a hair, it runs really nicely at "idle". Would there be any problem with cracking the blades open a bit at the throttle body using the stop screw? I have a 58mm Edelbrock TB and it would be a pretty simple thing to do. I don't have LT1 edit or any other tuning program so this would be the simplest way to do it. Will I throw off the values for the TPS or anything else?

-Brian

Sweetred95ta

If you adjust the idle with the stop screw, then the PCM is going to try and counter act that with the IAC. The only way you could make a long term change is to max out the IAC, which will cause the car to surge and not idle correctly. You need a cable and a laptop to check your IAC counts. If they are within spec, then there is something else that needs attention.

BTW, you don't need tuning software to see all of your sensors. You can use Freescan, which is free.

BlackbirdWS6

Thanks for the tip. Do I simply search for the program, download it, install and buy a laptop cable to hook to my laptop? I've been thinking that the IAC may be the culprit with my funky idle. Thanks

Sweetred95ta

I always forget to look, but I noticed that you have an OBDII. Freescan doesn't work with OBDII. Maybe search on here and see what people are using to scan there OBDII cars. When you find it, yes, all you have to do is have the software, laptop, and cable.

BUBBA

Tune. JMHO

BlackbirdWS6

Well it was dynotuned and it mainly has cold start idling issues (low idle). It runs great otherwise and is very smooth once its warmed up, but I just think the idle should be increased a little bit. Guess I'll have to find a buddy with LT1edit

-Brian

Sweetred95ta

Unless your buddy has an unlimited version of LT1Edit (expensive), they won't be able to tune your car. I'm not a big fan of dyno tuning because of stuff like that. The car gets hot and stays hot on the dyno. No tuning on the dyno (hot) can help cold driving.

BlackbirdWS6

yea i'm aware that they need an unlimited version. It really isn't a big deal because I am happy with how the car runs, I'm just getting really picky now since I am not planning any more perf. mods right now. I wouldn't consider this a reason to shy away from dyno tuning. I had a mail order tune that was ok... but the car ran so much better after it got a dyno tune. The idle was pig rich on the mail order as well as a couple other things that weren't quite where they should have been. I am not knocking mail order tunes, they prob work great in many instances but just not in my case.

-Brian

RE AND CHERYL

Are you saying the car idles around 950 RPM. It's actually supposed to idle lower then that. Stock is a bit below 800 RPM. The cam you have practically gaurentees a rough idle.

Just noticed you live in NJ. How do you get that thing through emissions up there??

1racerdude

Set it where ya want it with the idle screw and where it runs the best. If the IAC is maxed it can't do anything to help the idle.

Your factory tach may be off.

BlackbirdWS6

The tach is off, which is why I use the aeroforce guage that monitors engine parameters. I will try the screw adjustment in very small increments and see what happens. I know the cam won't have a "smooth" idle but idling too low doesn't sound very pleasing.

As far as the emissions issues in NJ. Lets just saying tuning goes a long way for OBD-II cars. It doesnt smell or sound like it will pass, but with the plug in inspection....passes with flying colors. It just takes a guy to not perform a visual.

-Brian