Build a seperate block, or rebuild my current?
Re: Build a seperate block, or rebuild my current?
Originally Posted by ninetythreez
I have LT1 blocks. shipping to Michigan is $200 though from Alabama.
shooterpcb@yahoo.com
or Yahoo IM- shooterpcb

shooterpcb@yahoo.com
or Yahoo IM- shooterpcb

Do you have them all the time, or do you happen to have a few right now? Also these are bare block correct?
Also here in MI I can get 92-94 octane premium with the majority being 92. The car will be driven on the street far more than driven at the track, although once the motor is built it will see much much more track time than it has. So it definately has to be street friendly. Basically I want to be able to just stop and put some gas in on my way to work a few days a week, be able to cruise, take it on trips, etc. I don't want to deal with what I'll call "race only" applications all the time. Just get in and go. I realize it won't drive like stock, but I should be able to get it to have manners somewhat close to stock, or within reason. Another question, how do I compute compression ratio? I want to factor in everything when I'm making purchases and decisions, but I'm not 100% certain what to look for. All the way down to little things, like the Impy gaskets(for lack of a better example in my head right now) and how each thing affects the total package. Thanks again for all the input.
Re: Build a seperate block, or rebuild my current?
Originally Posted by Jay-Roll
Do you have them all the time, or do you happen to have a few right now? Also these are bare block correct?
Also here in MI I can get 92-94 octane premium with the majority being 92. The car will be driven on the street far more than driven at the track, although once the motor is built it will see much much more track time than it has. So it definately has to be street friendly. Basically I want to be able to just stop and put some gas in on my way to work a few days a week, be able to cruise, take it on trips, etc. I don't want to deal with what I'll call "race only" applications all the time. Just get in and go. I realize it won't drive like stock, but I should be able to get it to have manners somewhat close to stock, or within reason. Another question, how do I compute compression ratio? I want to factor in everything when I'm making purchases and decisions, but I'm not 100% certain what to look for. All the way down to little things, like the Impy gaskets(for lack of a better example in my head right now) and how each thing affects the total package. Thanks again for all the input.
Also here in MI I can get 92-94 octane premium with the majority being 92. The car will be driven on the street far more than driven at the track, although once the motor is built it will see much much more track time than it has. So it definately has to be street friendly. Basically I want to be able to just stop and put some gas in on my way to work a few days a week, be able to cruise, take it on trips, etc. I don't want to deal with what I'll call "race only" applications all the time. Just get in and go. I realize it won't drive like stock, but I should be able to get it to have manners somewhat close to stock, or within reason. Another question, how do I compute compression ratio? I want to factor in everything when I'm making purchases and decisions, but I'm not 100% certain what to look for. All the way down to little things, like the Impy gaskets(for lack of a better example in my head right now) and how each thing affects the total package. Thanks again for all the input.
combustion chamber size
valve head thickness
head gasket thickness
stroke
camshaft
piston type... ex dome,flat-top,dished ect....
you have to take all of those in effect when you plan for compression ratio
but you can alter those to increase and decrease the ratio... and also don't forget the cam/timing it should be considered with static compression ratio...
Last edited by My Iroc Z28; Nov 16, 2004 at 12:03 AM.
Re: Build a seperate block, or rebuild my current?
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