Jay-Roll

I was planning the Lloyd Elliott LE2 H/C for the winter. But after seeing the under $500 forged rebuild kit from Summit I figure I might as well do the bottom end while I'm at it. I can do a 355 at hardly any extra cost. I originally was just going to get my stock crank polished, get the block magnafluxed, and everything else involved. Then just put it all back together with the new top end. I'm thinking though, if I'm gonna go that far, why not just buy a new Scat 9000 for $450 and have peace of mind I have that base covered for the future. Also upgrade any other parts not included. So should I buy another block for $200 or so and get started now, then I can take me sweet time(if need be) and still have a running motor in the Z. Heck even buy another set of heads for $250 and ship those off to Lloyd for P&P. Then when I get my new heads and cam back,and the other block all ready to go, then just switch over all the accessories and the like and swap motors. I can still sell my stock block and heads and get my money back. Aside from the block and heads prices because I can basically get a return on my money by selling my stockers. Would it be worth it my time and money to build another block, or would it be cheaper or easier to just rebuild my current one. Thanks in advance.

97WS6SCharged

It's definately easier to build a second block instead of using the one in the car. If you can find a good block for $200 I say go for it.

Z95m6

i would build a separate one. Thats what i did. I would get an extra set of heads and just rebuild a whole new motor and swap it in. Then you can sell your whole motor complete. Me and a buddy bought a complete iron headed LT1 complete with pcm, wiring harness, and accessories for $500.I took the block and got it rebuilt, and then we sold off all the pieces we didn't need such as the pcm, starter, opti, pistons, lifters and other misc. pieces and actually made money on it too. I bought another set of aluminum LT1 heads to send off to AI. Then i just pulled my new motor swapped over sensors, wiring and accessories and then dropped it in. It will save alot of down time. It will also help keep you from pulling the car apart and then just getting side tracked and never finishing the project. If you have everything there to do the swap at once then you can't really give up. Just my opinon.

SStrokerAce

Build another one. The stock bottom end is worth more together, or if you leave the heads on it more as a total motor on ebay to some guy with a Hot Rod.

Bret

My Iroc Z28

Im building a second motor also.. that way while im building the second motor i can still drive my z and theres no rush to get it back together...

mongse_1

I built my 383 on a separate block. While i was having the machine work done, I was able to drive the car on the stock motor. Blocks can be had for really cheap too. I still have an LT1 block/heads/intake combo for sale too.

Dave88LX

Another vote for "build a seperate one". Also, $450 is WAY too much for a Scat 9000 crank. www.adperformance.com Check out Brian for some great deals on internals.

SStrokerAce

If you are staying with a 350 (353-355) I would stick with the stock crank as long as you check the journals and then polish them. No need to go to a Scat 9000 unless you are going to a stroker. A Scat 9000 383 crank should be closer to $250-$300 than $400+.


Bret

Jay-Roll

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Now that it's established that I should build a seperate block. What parts should I look into? Here's the link to the forged rebuild I was talking about. Clicky What else should I do or consider, and what else would I need. Oh also there are about 3 different kits that are essentially the same thing. What I don't know about is the rod and main bearing "undersize". There are several different options. What should I go for? All kits are the same price regardless. $530 bucks. So some of my stock bottom end parts should be strong enough to handle what I throw at it? I'm planning for around 400-430hp to the wheels with the H/C and considered giving her some happy gas whenever that wasn't enough anymore(probably no more than a 200-250 shot). Then, if it died on me I'd shoot for a 383. I just don't want to kill it after only a few times out on the juice. Thanks again for everyone's replies.

Jay-Roll

Oh yeah I forgot to ask. What compression should I shoot for and why? Also what's the best way to acheive said compression? Thanks for the input.

93turbo5oh

id look for somewhere between 11 and 12 to 1.

My Iroc Z28

and to answer the other part on why..... because you want to run on pump gas on the street and race at the track and anything higher than 11:1 you will be needing race gas to get the most out of the motor...

Z95m6

I would stay at stock compression if you do any street driving. Although in my part of the country the best gas you can buy at the pump is 91 octane.

ninetythreez

I have LT1 blocks. shipping to Michigan is $200 though from Alabama.
shooterpcb@yahoo.com
or Yahoo IM- shooterpcb

My Iroc Z28

if you lookin for a LT1 block check ebay i got mine from there with a cam for 200 shipped from tennessee....