Brake light on in dash and brake fluid is full.
Brake light on in dash and brake fluid is full.
I have the damn brake light on in the dash. The fluid is up and no leaks. It came on when I was bleeding the system and it ran low. However the fluid is up and was only down when I was bleeding them. I stop fine but hate the light. I also reset the PCM and it is still on. Please any ideas???
Thanks I should look into it but my light stays on all the time from start up. All I wanted to do was get rid of the old dark fluid and pump in some fresh fluid. As they say don't fix it if it aint broken.
It is NOT the ABS inop light it is the red brake light.
Though my abs is also on when I installed the springs the left front one poped off and since the light was on. But thats another story. I'm waiting to do the 98+ front brakes soon.
Though my abs is also on when I installed the springs the left front one poped off and since the light was on. But thats another story. I'm waiting to do the 98+ front brakes soon.
The "BRAKE" light isn't just for low fluid... its for unequal pressure in the front and rear brake circuits. The pressure switch is in the block on the side of the ABS unit, where the lines from the master cylinder connect. Sounds like you didn't get one of the brake circuits fully bled.
It may be fully bled, but the switch that controls the lite and also senses unequal pressures, may have been exposed to unequal pressure temporarily during bleeding, thus causing the switch to shift off center. It would then just need to be recentered.
Wow arnie and Injuneer thanks now that does make sense but I did bleed them all.
How would I go about placing the switch on center?
I have all the books including the GM service and Haynes mans.
I'm planing to put the car up and do it again in the next hour or so. Damn all I wanted was some new fresh fluid running through.
How would I go about placing the switch on center?
I have all the books including the GM service and Haynes mans.
I'm planing to put the car up and do it again in the next hour or so. Damn all I wanted was some new fresh fluid running through.
I had a similar problem with my brake light going on and staying on after i went through a car wash. Dont yell ( i was not familiar with opticrap problems yet). It stayed on for a long time and even would go away once in a while. A mech. showed me the poblem which was a loose conection on what i thought was the cruise control unit but evidently is also related to the brakes. Anyhow problem was fixed in less than 15 secs. The cruise contol unit i am describing (if that is what it is) is located drivers side mounted low just above the plastic splash gaurds. By the way my car is a 94 also.
94TA
94TA
Arnie I've pulled out my books and I have the 2 green GM manuals I didn't see helms on it. Anyway I can't see and havn't found the section your refering to. Could you please give me some more details. Thx
It does say in the beginning of the general brake section, that the switch will "latch" in the warning position. The lamp will go off after the condition is repaired and pedal force enough to equal to 450 psi hydraulic pressure is applied. Try mashing real hard on the pedal. 
You could always pull the connector off the switch to see if that switch is what is causing the light. The unequal pressure switch is a normally open switch and closes to ground when operated.

You could always pull the connector off the switch to see if that switch is what is causing the light. The unequal pressure switch is a normally open switch and closes to ground when operated.
Last edited by shoebox; Feb 7, 2003 at 03:17 PM.
Or, if that fails, with pedal pressure, 'crack' open the fitting of the offending line to manipulate a temporary pressure differential till valve/sensor is centered, and lite goes out. EZ does it here. Course to determine the correct line is 50-50 if both sides (fr. & rr.) were bled.
Thanks guys I'll do the mash first then the bleeding. What I did read is there is a tire sequence on how to bleed the system.
It is an X but you start at the right rear, then left front and so on.
Thanks again guys and I'll post what happens.
Also that fluid was real black with particles it could've gotten in the switch.
It is an X but you start at the right rear, then left front and so on.
Thanks again guys and I'll post what happens.
Also that fluid was real black with particles it could've gotten in the switch.


