LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

bottom end and internals, durability for 600HP

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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 02:11 AM
  #1  
bkpliskin's Avatar
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From: Snow Belt, PA
bottom end and internals, durability for 600HP

hey guys, so here's what's going on....
I'm going to be doing a H/C package....more than likely a mild cam...taking the heads to a local machine shop for a "stage II" port and polish, 3 angle valve job and such, the usual head work. I figure this, with my current mods, will easily put me over 400 crank hp

well here's my question....after that is completed, I fully intend on supercharging, which of course will involve a fuel system upgrade as well,
this should throw me over the 600 crank hp mark

will my 2 bolt main hold up? is it even going to be possible to put that kind of power down without destroying parts of the engine or am I going to need new pistons, rods, etc?
I understand there will typical breakage issues with the tranny and rear which could occur at any time
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 07:07 AM
  #2  
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will my 2 bolt main hold up?
Maybe, but I wouldn't try it.


am I going to need new pistons, rods, etc?
pistons - yes, definitely
rods - debatable
crank- debatable




I understand there will typical breakage issues with the tranny and rear which could occur at any time
Correct

Rich
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #3  
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Rich must be in a good mood today

I don't know your exact plans but I would do a H/C setup on the stock shortblock while saving for a forged bottom end. Most of your stock components will be crap if you plan on making 600 fwhp. Also will your mild cam be designed for boost or are you going to buy another cam when you finally go forced induction?
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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If it detonates it will crack the pistons and if it doesn't detonate the pistons/rings may get hot enough to butt the ring gap and rip to top off the piston.

Understand that 400 crank HP is NOT a lot and that to have 600hp at the crank with a blower the engine is actually being loaded with say 650hp(guess for illustration purposes) because it is also making the power to drive the blower.

Seems like an irresponsibly aggressive goal for a near stock compression boosted engine.
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 10:29 AM
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bkpliskin's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ulakovic22
Rich must be in a good mood today

I don't know your exact plans but I would do a H/C setup on the stock shortblock while saving for a forged bottom end. Most of your stock components will be crap if you plan on making 600 fwhp. Also will your mild cam be designed for boost or are you going to buy another cam when you finally go forced induction?
how much for a forged bottom end???
Old Aug 2, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by rskrause
will my 2 bolt main hold up?
Maybe, but I wouldn't try it.


am I going to need new pistons, rods, etc?
pistons - yes, definitely
rods - debatable
crank- debatable




I understand there will typical breakage issues with the tranny and rear which could occur at any time
Correct

Rich
i been on a 2bolt block for 2year going 10.6-10.1s at 130-136 with no problems. car weights 3700 with me in it so i know it makes well over 600h.p at the crank to pull these times. i have egale 4340 crank and h beam rods with srp forged pistons.

Last edited by 383racecar; Aug 2, 2008 at 10:51 AM.
Old Aug 3, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #7  
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From: Lantana, TX
Originally Posted by bkpliskin
how much for a forged bottom end???
Figure $800 for machining, that includes bore, align hone, decking, assembly, etc., so just tack on parts to that. New will be $1800 I would guess off the top of my head. Used would be considerably cheaper depending on the deals you find, so all in for a forged SB would be $2500-$2600.
Old Aug 3, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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So long as your 600hp is crank thats not too bad. If you planing on a 350/355 i would re use the stock crank, lots of guys have taken it to 750hp and beyond that. You could re use the stock rods too but by the time you pay for arp bolts your better off going with cheap forged ones. Pistons, no way. They are not going to hold up.
Get a quality piston (there are many) and have the rings gapped for the blower. Depending on rpm's i would stud the mains or go 4 bolt. If your going to stroke it stay with a cast crank at 600hp. 650,700 hp i would go forged. Your starting to wake on thin ice after 600.

Assembly and machine work can go a long way. Pick a known engine builder or take your time doing it yourself. Those two can either make you or break you, so make it a sure thing.

Unless your local shop is Advanced Induction I would really send your heads off to AI or Llyod Elliot. It will be worth your time and hassle. Every motors potential is in the heads, do them right. Another thing to consider, for roughly $800 you can get heads with full hardware flowing 250/185. I bet you would be over 1k for somewhere local to achieve those numbers.

Good luck.
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